The short answer
Start here. On this washer, a live display with no action proves the supply and moves the fault to the lid circuit, the water or the control state. A lock, a delay and a power cycle are free; a worn lid switch is a part and the motor is a service call.
What you actually see
- The panel lights but the cycle never begins — A live control with no action separates the panel from the machine.
- It fills but never agitates or tumbles — Filling proves the supply and the control; the fault is downstream.
- It stops the moment the lid is opened and will not resume — A machine that will not resume after a pause is a switch or a control state.
- The breaker trips when it is switched on — A trip on start ends owner diagnosis immediately.
Causes, ranked for this washer
- Control lock or delay set — Top of the list: a delay in particular looks exactly like a broken machine because the display shows a time and nothing happens. Getting a definite answer here is worth more than a quick look at the three below it.
- Lid or door not closing its switch — Next: a washer will not run with the lid believed open, and the catch is a small plastic part that wears until it no longer closes the switch. If this is the answer, the rest of the list stops mattering entirely.
- Water supply not turned on — Then: it is a very common answer precisely because the supply is meant to be disconnected after every use. Where this checks out clean, treat the next entry as the working theory rather than a possibility.
What to check, in order
- First — the control state — Hold each button in turn for several seconds and watch for a lock symbol clearing.
- Second — the lid catch and switch — Look at the catch and the striker for wear or a missing piece; both are visible with the lid open.
Checks an owner can do safely
- Step 1. Test the outlet with something else — Plug a lamp or a charger into the same socket. A dead socket means the machine is not the fault.
Tools: lamp or phone chargerAbout 5 min
- Step 2. Confirm the tap is open — Check the tap and the adapter, start a fill, and listen for water arriving. A machine that cannot fill will not start its cycle.
Tools: noneAbout 5 min
- Step 3. Power-cycle the machine — Unplug it for several minutes until any display is dark, then restore power and try again.
Tools: noneAbout 10 min
Before you open anything
Safety
Disconnect power at the plug or the breaker before opening anything. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, which is why a panel that has been dead for a minute is still treated as live. If a check requires the unit running, that check is not an owner check.
When this becomes a service call
Where the owner side ends is easy to state. A drum that will not turn by hand is jammed rather than electrically dead, and clearing a jam on a sealed drum is service work.
Sources
General guidance- The Control of Hazardous Energy (Lockout/Tagout) — OSHA 1910.147 and manufacturer service manuals, fetched
- Article 210 — Branch Circuits — NFPA 70 (National Electrical Code), fetched
Nearest pages
What this page does not cover
This is the general page. It applies to Black+Decker washers broadly and deliberately avoids anything that would only be true of one family or one production run — board revisions, part numbers, code tables and torque figures all belong a level down. Where such a page exists it takes precedence over this one, and Related pages is where to find it.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
