The short answer
On a Black+Decker washer, continuous noise through every cycle is different from spin noise, and it points at the drive rather than the load. Checking for trapped objects and a jammed pump is free; a bearing is major work and usually a replacement decision.
What you actually see
- A rattle that comes and goes — Intermittent rattles are usually an object trapped between the drum and the tub.
- A squeal that rises with drum speed — A rising squeal points at a belt or a bearing.
- The machine is louder on a hard floor than it was on carpet — Floor coupling changes the sound without changing the machine.
- A grinding sound throughout the cycle — Continuous grinding points at a bearing or something caught in the drum.
Causes, ranked for this washer
- Object trapped between drum and tub — Most likely — coins, underwires and buttons work through the drum holes and rattle against the outer tub, producing an intermittent metallic sound. A clean result here does not just remove one part; it removes everything that depends on it.
- Drive belt worn or slipping — Common — it is ranked here because it produces a distinctive sound rather than a general one. It is worth being sure about this one rather than half-sure, since everything after it assumes a verdict.
- Drum bearing worn — Regular — a bearing produces a continuous grinding or roaring that rises with speed and is present in every cycle, not only at spin. This is the entry most often blamed correctly and diagnosed carelessly, so take the extra minute.
What to check, in order
- First — the drum by hand — Check the pump filter — small objects often end up there and their presence tells you what has been loose in the machine.
- Second — the belt where one is fitted — Note whether the squeal follows drum speed. A sound that rises and falls with the drum is a belt or a bearing rather than a pump.
Checks an owner can do safely
- Step 1. Level the machine — Push each corner down in turn and adjust the foot under any that moves until all four carry load.
Tools: adjustable spanner or handAbout 15 min
- Step 2. Check the pump filter for objects — Close the supply, put a tray under the filter cover, open it and look at what comes out. Coins and buttons tell you what has been loose.
Tools: shallow tray, towelsAbout 20 min
- Step 3. Listen at the start of the spin — A squeal that rises with drum speed points at a belt; a roar present throughout every cycle points at a bearing.
Tools: noneAbout 10 min
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug it, then plan the move before making it. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Clear a path, get a second pair of hands, and never take the weight of a cabinet on its open door or its shelves.
When this becomes a service call
Where the owner side ends is easy to state. A machine still fitted with transit bolts should be stopped immediately and the bolts removed before it is run again.
Sources
General guidance- The Control of Hazardous Energy (Lockout/Tagout) — OSHA 1910.147 and manufacturer service manuals, fetched
Nearest pages
What this page does not cover
This page is written for Black+Decker washers in general. It does not cover a specific family, a specific model number or a control board revision, and where a family or model page exists it will be more precise than this one — start here to understand the fault, then follow the more specific page for the part numbers and the board layout. The nearest pages of that kind are linked under Related pages.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
