The short answer
Start here. On this washer, noise confined to the spin step is a balance question until proved otherwise. Redistributing a load costs nothing and settles most of these in one attempt.
What you actually see
- A grinding sound throughout the cycle — Continuous grinding points at a bearing or something caught in the drum.
- A rattle that comes and goes — Intermittent rattles are usually an object trapped between the drum and the tub.
- Clicking during the wash step — Clicking at low speed is often a coin or a button in the drum.
- A hum with no drum movement — That is a motor problem rather than a noise complaint.
Causes, ranked for this washer
- Unbalanced load — Top of the list: it is first because it explains most spin noise, costs nothing to correct, and is almost always the answer on a compact machine. Getting a definite answer here is worth more than a quick look at the three below it.
- Object trapped between drum and tub — Next: coins, underwires and buttons work through the drum holes and rattle against the outer tub, producing an intermittent metallic sound. If this is the answer, the rest of the list stops mattering entirely.
- Machine not level or on a soft floor — Then: it is the reason a machine that was quiet in one place is loud in another with nothing having changed inside it. Where this checks out clean, treat the next entry as the working theory rather than a possibility.
What to check, in order
- First — how the load is distributed — Stop the cycle, redistribute the load by hand, and run a spin again. A single towel or a bath mat on its own is the classic culprit.
- Second — the drum by hand — Check the pump filter — small objects often end up there and their presence tells you what has been loose in the machine.
Checks an owner can do safely
- Step 1. Redistribute the load — Stop the cycle, open the machine, spread the load evenly by hand and run a spin again. A single heavy item on its own is the usual cause.
Tools: noneAbout 10 min
- Step 2. Turn the drum by hand and listen — With the machine unplugged, turn the drum slowly and listen for an object sliding, tapping or grinding inside.
Tools: noneAbout 10 min
- Step 3. Try the machine on a firmer surface — Move it onto a firm level floor or an anti-vibration mat and run a spin. A quieter machine means the floor was the amplifier.
Tools: anti-vibration matAbout 20 min
Before you open anything
Safety
Isolate the power, then treat the move as the hazard it is. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Two people, no obstacles underfoot, and nothing resting on the top panel while the unit is away from the wall.
When this becomes a service call
Where the owner side ends is easy to state. On a compact machine a bearing replacement is often worth more than the appliance, so this is frequently a replacement decision rather than a repair one.
Sources
General guidance- The Control of Hazardous Energy (Lockout/Tagout) — OSHA 1910.147 and manufacturer service manuals, fetched
Nearest pages
What this page does not cover
This is the general page. It applies to Black+Decker washers broadly and deliberately avoids anything that would only be true of one family or one production run — board revisions, part numbers, code tables and torque figures all belong a level down. Where such a page exists it takes precedence over this one, and Related pages is where to find it.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
