The short answer for these models
Most washer noise is the load rather than the machine. An unbalanced drum, a machine that is not level and transit bolts still in place account for the great majority of complaints, and all three are free to correct. The sounds that matter are the ones that continue with an empty drum. What changes on the MAS models is the sequence rather than the diagnosis. A tap-adapter installation gives up its pressure and its drain height the moment the adapter slips, so a fault that looks electrical on a plumbed machine is usually mechanical on a portable one, which is why the supply and adapter checks belong at the top of the list here.
What you actually see
- Before the list: which of the MAS forms is in front of you — See where the water comes from. On a portable installation two failure points sit outside the machine and imitate faults inside it.
- A rhythmic banging that only happens at spin — It bangs in time with the drum and only during the spin, which is the signature of a load on one side.
- The machine walks across the floor — The machine moves across the floor, which is rocking taken to its conclusion.
- A low rumble like a plane taking off at spin — Rumble that fills the room at high spin is a bearing telling you it has had enough.
- NEAR MISS — it is noisy and will not empty — A pump working against an obstruction is loud. Read the page about a machine that will not drain instead.
Causes, most likely first on this family
- Transit bolts or packing still fitted — Here because a machine that has never been unbolted after delivery sounds catastrophic while being in perfect health. This is where the order departs from the brand-level page: on the MAS models the construction settles it, so the supply and adapter checks come before the checks that lead anywhere else.
- The drum bearings, the belt or the motor — Last because a genuine bearing failure is rarer than all four causes above it and because it is the only one needing the cabinet off.
The order the checks belong in
- First — redistribute the load and spin again — Spread the load evenly and run a spin. One minute of work eliminates the commonest cause on the page. On these models this is the step the construction changes: the answer only tells you something once you know which form the unit is.
- Second — check for transit bolts and clearance — Look at the back panel for bolts or a shipping bracket, and make sure nothing touches the cabinet on any side.
Before you open anything
Safety
Kill the power before anything opens — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Leave the lid or door switch and its wiring exactly as found; it stops a spinning drum, and no noise is worth reaching into one. Drain the machine before moving it, and walk it rather than dragging it.
Where the owner job ends
The free checks are the whole owner half here: levelling, the floor, the load, the pockets and an empty spin. If the noise survives all five it belongs to a bearing, a pump or a drive, and that is a technician. Say whether it happens on wash, on spin or on both.
The other symptoms covered for this family
- Black+Decker MAS Washer Will Not Start: The Family-Specific Checks
- Black+Decker MAS Washer Drainage Trouble: The Order These Models Reward
- Black+Decker MAS Washer Pausing Partway: Where This Family Differs
- Black+Decker MAS Washer Leaking: What Changes on This Family
- Black+Decker MAS Washer: Which Problems Happen on This Family
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
