The short answer for these models
The first job with a leak is to find out when it happens, because that names the part. Water during fill means the inlet side, water during drain means the outlet side, and water all the time means a seal or a cracked component. Watch one cycle before touching anything. Where this departs from the brand-level page is the ranking. A twin-tub keeps its wash and spin functions on separate motors and separate timers, so half the machine can fail while the other half works perfectly and hides it, so on a MAR unit the function-by-function checks lead.
How this shows up
- Before the list: which of the MAR forms is in front of you — Look at how many baskets the machine has. Two means wash and spin run on separate drives and can fail independently; one means a single fault takes the whole cycle.
- Water at the front under the door or the lid — Front water is where the load meets the machine, and the seal is the thing the load abrades.
- A slow drip that never seems to stop — A drip that continues with the machine switched off, which can only come from something under pressure.
- NEAR MISS — the tub is full at the end but the floor is dry — That is a drainage failure, not a leak, and the page about a machine that will not empty covers it.
Causes, most likely first on this family
- Detergent overdose or the wrong detergent — On the list because it is free to test: one cycle at a fraction of the usual dose answers it for good. On a MAR unit this rises to the top of the order, because the identification step above changes what it proves — so the function-by-function checks answer more in five minutes than the rest of the list answers in an hour.
- The tub, the sump or an internal hose — Last because an internal split is far rarer than a connection fault and because reaching it means the cabinet off.
The order the checks belong in
- First — dry the floor and run one cycle watching with a torch — Do this before moving anything: a leak you have watched is a leak you can find. On these models this is the step the construction changes: the answer only tells you something once you know which form the unit is.
- Second — check every connection at the back — Most leaks are at a joint, and every joint on this machine is behind it.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. A hot wash leaks hot water, so let the machine cool before you put your hands near a coupling. Mop as you go and keep the plug and socket clear of the puddle.
Where the owner job ends
The owner half is everything you can reach without a tool: connections, the seal, the drawer and the filter cap. A leak from the tub, the pump body or the bearing housing is not. Say at which point in the cycle it appears — fill, wash or drain — because that names the suspect.
The other symptoms covered for this family
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
