The short answer for these models
Ask what the noise tracks. A bang that arrives with the spin is balance, a rattle that comes and goes with rotation is something loose, and a rumble that rises steadily with drum speed is the one that needs a technician. Where this departs from the brand-level page is the ranking. A twin-tub keeps its wash and spin functions on separate motors and separate timers, so half the machine can fail while the other half works perfectly and hides it, so on a MAR unit the function-by-function checks lead.
How this shows up
- The MAR form you own, which changes what the rest of this list means — Count the baskets. Two means wash and spin are independent and one can fail alone; one means a single fault stops everything.
- A rhythmic banging that only happens at spin — An unbalanced load, or a machine that can rock. It arrives with the spin and leaves with it.
- The machine walks across the floor — The machine moves across the floor, which is rocking taken to its conclusion.
- A squeal or a chirp that rises with drum speed — A belt or a bearing under load. This is the sound that grows over weeks rather than appearing overnight.
- Grinding during drain only — Grinding confined to the drain step, which belongs to the pump and not to anything that spins.
- NEAR MISS — the noise came with water on the floor — Then it is a leak first and a noise second, and the page about a leaking machine is the one to read.
Causes, most likely first on this family
- A foreign object between the tub and the drum — Coins, buttons and underwires escape the drum and then sit where they can be heard on every rotation. It is placed first on the MAR models rather than where the brand-level page puts it, because the form of the unit decides how much this can explain — which makes the function-by-function checks the checks with the most to say.
- The drum bearings, the belt or the motor — Last, because a genuine bearing failure is rarer than all four causes above and because it is the only one that needs the cabinet off.
Check in this order, and why
- First — redistribute the load and spin again — Spread the load evenly and run a spin. One minute of work eliminates the commonest cause on the page.
- Second — check for transit bolts and clearance — Look at the back panel for transit bolts or a shipping bracket, especially if the machine has been moved recently. On these models this is the step the construction changes: read the result against the form you identified first, because the same finding means different things on the two.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Never reach into a drum that is still turning, and never hold a lid or a door closed to keep a noisy spin going — the interlock exists precisely for the moment you are curious. Get help to move the machine; a loaded washer is far heavier than it looks.
Where the owner job ends
Book a visit when the machine is level, the load is right, the drum is empty and the noise is still there. Book sooner if the sound is metal on metal or if the drum has started to move more than it used to by hand.
The other symptoms covered for this family
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
