The answer first
On the BFL line a new noise is a filter question first, because the sump on the models listed in the table on this page sits directly below the drum and anything that leaves a pocket lands in it. The brand-generic page starts with the load; here the filter comes first because this platform puts it within reach.
What you are seeing
- A metallic tinkle during the wash — Coins or a key circulating between the drum and the tub, or already in the sump.
- A grinding or roaring that rises with the spin speed — Speed-dependent noise from the drum area points at the bearing, and it gets worse over weeks rather than suddenly. It is one of the few places the models listed in the table on this page genuinely diverge.
- A heavy knocking that walks the machine across the floor — An unbalanced load or an unlevel cabinet. It is violent, it is alarming, and it is usually not a fault.
- A high-pitched squeal during the wash — A belt slipping on its pulley, or a drum rubbing where something has lodged between it and the tub.
- A rattling or clicking from the pump area — A coin or a button circulating in the sump hits the impeller housing on every rotation of the pump.
- NEAR MISS — the noise is the drain pump running normally — A short whirr at the end of each phase is the pump doing its job and it is not a fault.
- NEAR MISS — the noise only happens with a duvet in — That is a load problem rather than a machine problem, and it will happen to a healthy machine every time.
What is most likely, and why
- An object between the drum and the tub — Top of the list here. This one damages the machine if it is left, which is why a scraping noise should stop the machine today. What separates the BFL line here is the order, not the parts.
- An unlevel cabinet or loose feet — Second on this list. A machine standing on three feet rocks at speed and turns ordinary vibration into a knock against the floor.
- A failing drum bearing — Next after those two. A bearing rarely fails alone: the seal goes first, the water follows, and the noise arrives last. On the models listed in the table on this page this is the check that decides the job.
- A motor bearing or brush fault — Less common than the three above. Less common than a drum bearing, and it produces a noise that is present at all speeds rather than rising with the spin.
- A foot that has dropped or lost its lock nut — Fifth. Feet work loose over years and a single loose one is enough.
Check in this order, and why
- Identify which phase the noise belongs to — Listen through a whole cycle before opening anything.
- Check the machine is level and does not rock — Level the cabinet before condemning any part. The BFL line is no worse than its siblings here, but it is no better either.
- Check the transit bolts have been removed — Any machine moved in the last year deserves this check.
- Run an empty drum on a spin-only programme — An empty spin is the cleanest mechanical test available.
Safety first
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker, then shut the water off. Never run a cycle with a panel removed, and leave the door lock exactly as it is: it keeps the drum shut while it spins and that is its whole purpose.
Models in the BFL family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| BFL104ADW | beko:washer:bfl |
| BFL7510W | beko:washer:bfl |
| BFL7520W | beko:washer:bfl |
The line between a fix and a call
Call when the drum is rough to turn by hand, or when the roar rises with the spin and worsens week by week. Those two together are a bearing, and a bearing is behind the cabinet.
Nearby pages
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
