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Before anything else on an RMRT cabinet, look at the arm or the switch: an ice maker that has been turned off, or whose bail arm is resting in the raised position, is the single commonest cause of no ice on any refrigerator. It costs nothing to exclude and it explains a surprising share of the complaints that reach a technician.
What you actually observe
- The ice tastes or smells of the cabinet — Old ice in a bin absorbs odour; it is a housekeeping matter rather than a fault.
- The mould is completely dry — No water is arriving, so the fault is upstream of the ice maker rather than in it.
- A knock in the pipework each time it fills — Water hammer at the fill valve, which is a plumbing symptom rather than an ice maker one.
- NEAR MISS — no ice and the food in the freezer is soft — That is a cooling fault first. Fix the temperature and the ice usually returns on its own.
What it usually turns out to be, in order
- The cabinet is not fitted with an ice maker, or its switch is off — Across a stem this wide the fitting is not uniform, and an arm resting in its raised position or a switch left off produces exactly the same complaint as a broken machine. Ranked first here: it is both the commonest cause of this complaint on compact refrigeration and the cheapest to rule out, which is the same reason it belongs before anything requiring a panel.
- Water supply shut off, kinked or restricted at the valve — The supply usually starts at a small valve under a sink or behind the cabinet, and that valve is the part most often found half closed or silted up. Second on this family: it produces the same complaint as the cause above it, so the two have to be separated before either is acted on.
- Fill valve or its inlet screen blocked — The inlet screen catches grit from the supply and is a common restriction; the valve itself is electrically opened and can fail closed. Third on RMRT: it is still something you can see rather than measure, but it takes the cabinet emptied or moved and the two above it do not.
The order of checks, and why it is this one
- Look at the mould before anything else — Dry, wet or solid: that single observation on an RMRT cabinet decides which half of the list below applies and saves working through the other half.
- Look inside the freezer section for the mould and the arm — No mould means nothing to fix. An arm in the raised position, or a switch at off, means nothing broken.
- Follow the line back to its shutoff and open it fully — Then look along the line for a kink where the cabinet meets the wall.
- Judge the fill by the cubes it makes — Hollow or half-height cubes mean water is arriving but not enough of it, which points at the screen before the valve.
Isolate the machine first
Safety
Power off before anything else — the plug out, or the breaker open. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off.
Models in the RMRT family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| RMRT30X#**-IS | avanti:refrigerator:rmrt |
| RMRT30X** | avanti:refrigerator:rmrt |
| RMRT30X1B-IS | avanti:refrigerator:rmrt |
| RMRT30X5R-IS | avanti:refrigerator:rmrt |
| RMRT30X6BL-IS | avanti:refrigerator:rmrt |
| RMRT30X7G-IS | avanti:refrigerator:rmrt |
When this stops being owner work
Call when the next step would need a meter, and call earlier than that for three things: a breaker that will not stay in, a plug or cord warm to the touch, and oil at any joint in the tubing. Everything above those lines is owner work and most of it needs no tool at all, which is why the order puts it first.
Other RMRT problems we cover
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
