What this usually is
Most no-ice calls on this roster turn out to have nothing wrong with the icemaker at all. The commonest single finding is a fill tube frozen solid, which looks like a dead icemaker and is a twenty-minute thaw. Only the water valve and the mechanism need a technician, and both sit behind the rest of the list. Where this page says "on this family" it means every listing in the table above, not a subset of them.
How it presents
- The mechanism runs on a cycle but the bin never fills — Production far slower than consumption, which points at the compartment temperature rather than at the mechanism.
- Hollow or crescent-shaped cubes that are part frozen — Classic partial fill. The tray is being given less water than it expects, which is a supply restriction rather than a mechanism fault.
- A slab of ice in the bin rather than cubes — Melt and refreeze, which means the compartment temperature is swinging rather than holding.
- Water on the floor of the freezer under the icemaker — Overfill, or a fill tube that is thawing and dripping. Either way the supply side is where to look.
- Cubes are small but properly formed — A short fill rather than a blocked one. Suspect a restriction in the filter or a partially closed supply tap.
- NEAR MISS — water is leaking outside the cabinet — A supply leak is its own page and its own urgency; deal with the water before the ice.
Ranked causes for these models
- Fill tube frozen — First on this roster. The tube crosses from a warm space into a cold one and any drip left behind after a fill can freeze there, which plugs the line solid and leaves the mechanism harvesting nothing.
- Supply shut off, kinked or restricted — Second and entirely mundane. Valves get closed during other work and lines get pinched when a cabinet is pushed back, and neither event is remembered later.
- Water filter blocked or overdue — A filter at the end of its life restricts flow enough to part-fill the tray, which is where hollow cubes come from. It also tends to be the last thing anyone thinks of.
- Water inlet valve or icemaker module failed — Last on the list. Both are real failures and both need testing rather than guessing, which is where this page hands over.
The diagnostic order for this family
- Check the shut-off arm is down, or the bin sensor is clear — An arm held up by a stored bag stops production completely and takes a second to rule out.
- Look at the fill tube where it enters the compartment — A plug of ice at the entry point is the commonest single finding on this page and it is visible from inside the freezer.
- Check the age of the water filter — A restricted filter part-fills the tray, and it explains hollow cubes better than anything else on the list.
Safety before diagnosis
Safety
Pull the plug, or trip the breaker if the machine is hard-wired, before a single screw comes out — and remember that a capacitor stays charged after the supply is gone. The supply line behind the cabinet is under mains pressure.
Models in the ADDR family — These listings are what this page covers, and the boundary of what it claims.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| ADDR242PR | avallon:refrigerator:addr |
| ADDR242SS | avallon:refrigerator:addr |
The line between a fix and a call
Call once water reaches the cabinet, the compartment is genuinely cold, the arm is down and there is still no ice. At that point the fault is the inlet valve or the module, and both are tested with a meter rather than by inspection.
Nearest pages of this class
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
