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Water under one of these cabinets comes from one of three places, and telling them apart is a matter of where the water is rather than how much of it there is. The supply line and its fitting are behind the cabinet and produce a steady puddle that does not respond to anything done inside. Find out whether the water is cold and clean or not, and whether it appears whether or not the icemaker is running. Checking your listing against the table takes a moment and saves ordering against the wrong catalogue.
What owners report
- Ice on the floor of the freezer under the drawer — The drain frozen a stage earlier: the water refroze before it could leave the compartment.
- A steady drip from behind the cabinet — The supply line, the inlet valve or the fitting at the tap. This is the one that needs attention today.
- Condensation running down the inside walls — Humid air getting in. Suspect a door seal or a door being held fractionally open by a shelf or a bottle.
- The drain pan at the back is full or overflowing — Normal for the pan to hold water; not normal for it to overflow, which means more water than the airflow can evaporate.
- NEAR MISS — the cabinet is also warm — Then the leak is secondary to an airflow problem and the cooling page for this family is where to start.
Causes, most likely first on this roster
- Defrost drain blocked with ice or debris — Top of the list and not close. The drain entry sits at the coldest point in the cabinet, so a slow drain becomes a frozen one, and a season of food debris finishes the job.
- Drain pan displaced, cracked or overfull — Second. The pan is meant to sit over the compressor and evaporate what it receives; knocked out of position, it simply pours it onto the floor instead.
- Door seal set, torn or held open — Humid room air reaching cold surfaces condenses and runs. Common in a warm kitchen and commoner still where a shelf or a tall bottle stops the door closing fully.
- Icemaker fill tube or tray overfilling — Identifiable by its timing: water that arrives shortly after a fill belongs to the ice path and not to the defrost path.
- Supply line, fitting or inlet valve leaking — Bottom by frequency and top by urgency. This is the only water on the page that is connected to a main, which means it does not stop when the cycle does.
Work in this sequence
- Establish whether the water is inside the liner or on the floor — Inside means condensate and the drain; outside at the back means supply. This single observation halves the list.
- Check whether the water appears in step with the icemaker — Water that arrives shortly after a fill belongs to the icemaker path and not to the defrost path.
- Look behind the cabinet at the supply fitting and the tap — Do this early despite it being the least likely: a mains leak is the only one here that gets worse while you think about it.
Isolate first
Safety
Kill the supply before anything else happens: unplug it, or switch the breaker off. A capacitor can hold a charge long after the power has gone.
Models in the ADDR family — Every listing below is in scope. The table is the boundary of this page's generalization.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| ADDR242PR | avallon:refrigerator:addr |
| ADDR242SS | avallon:refrigerator:addr |
The line between a fix and a call
Stop when the water is warm, or when it has any colour to it. Condensate is cold and clean; anything else came from somewhere it should not have, and that is worth having looked at rather than mopped up.
Nearest pages of this class
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
