What this usually is
On these models the drain path runs from the sump, through a pump, up a hose to a high loop and into the waste, and every one of those four stages fails in a characteristic way. A drain hose that has lost its high loop siphons the machine empty and then lets the sink's water back in. Only a pump replacement takes this off the owner list on this platform. A trailing letter in the table is a trim code, so do not read it as a different platform.
What is left in the machine
- The machine hums at the end of the cycle but nothing moves — The pump is being driven and cannot turn, which usually means something is wrapped round the impeller.
- A smell that gets worse between uses — Standing water in the sump with food in it. The smell is a symptom of the drainage fault, not a separate problem.
- Water reappears in the tub hours after a cycle ends — Backflow from the waste, which means the high loop or the check valve rather than the pump.
- The drain runs but stops early — The pump losing prime against a restriction, which usually means the sump rather than the hose.
- Standing water covering the bottom of the tub — More than the film that always remains in the sump. Enough to see and enough to smell after a day.
- NEAR MISS — the machine never filled in the first place — An empty tub with a stopped cycle is a fill fault, not a drain fault, and it belongs on a different page.
The ranking for this platform
- Filter and sump packed with debris — Top of the list. This is the last thing between the tub and the pump and it catches everything, so when it fills the water stops before the pump is ever involved.
- Waste connection blocked, or the disposer plug never removed — Second, and it explains almost every machine that has never drained properly since installation day. A new disposer ships with its spigot sealed.
- Drain hose kinked or without a high loop — Installation faults rather than failures. A crushed hose restricts; a hose with no rise lets the sink drain back into the tub.
- Check valve stuck — The valve that stops drained water returning can stick open or closed. Open, the tub refills from the hose; closed, nothing leaves at all.
- Drain pump failed — Bottom of the list. Silence at the drain stage means dead or not being told to run, and separating those needs a meter rather than a torch.
The diagnostic order for this family
- Bail out the standing water and remove the filter — It gives you access to everything else and the filter itself is the commonest answer on the page.
- Reach into the sump and clear what is in it — Carefully, because glass ends up here. A foreign object against the impeller is found at this step, not later.
- Time how long the drain stage runs before it gives up — A short drain that stops early is losing prime; a long one that moves nothing is blocked.
What to do before the panel comes off
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Standing water in a dishwasher sump contains broken glass more often than anyone expects.
Models in the DWC family — These listings are what this page covers, and the boundary of what it claims.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| DWC6#32BI***** | asko:dishwasher:dwc |
| DWC6#32FI**** | asko:dishwasher:dwc |
The line between a fix and a call
The owner line on this family is the sump. Clearing the filter, clearing the sump by hand, checking the waste connection and re-routing a hose are all yours.
Other pages for this family
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