The finding, first
On these models the tub is sealed at the door by a gasket that runs round three sides, and that gasket is where this page starts. A door gasket that has hardened, a machine that is not level, and too much detergent are between them responsible for most of what gets reported. Two of the three commonest causes need no tools and no parts at all.
Where the water shows up
- Water appearing at the front, under the door — The gasket, the door alignment or overfoaming. All three put water past the same edge.
- Foam or suds visible through the door or left in the tub — Too much detergent, the wrong detergent, or washing-up liquid in the machine. Foam climbs and escapes where water would not.
- Damp or staining at the front edge of the floor covering — A slow leak that has been running for months. The damage often shows before the water does.
- Water only when the machine is full — Level rather than pressure. A fully loaded tub holds more water and reaches higher up the door.
- NEAR MISS — water inside the tub that will not go away — Standing water is a drainage fault, not a leak, and it has its own page for this family.
Causes, most likely first on this roster
- Door gasket hardened, displaced or dirty — First on this roster. The gasket is a rubber part living in a hot, wet, greasy environment, and it takes a permanent set over the years so that it no longer springs back against the door.
- Drain hose clip loose, or the hose split at a bend — Water only during the drain stage, and always at the back or under the kickboard. Vibration works the clip loose over years, and the hose fatigues where it is bent tightest.
- Tub seal or spray arm bearing leaking — Slow, steady and hidden. This puts water into the base tray rather than onto the floor at first, which is why it tends to be found by a float switch before it is found by an owner.
- Inlet valve, supply fitting or tap leaking — Last by frequency and first by urgency. Mains water under pressure behind a built-in machine does not stop, and this is the cause that damages a kitchen rather than a cycle.
Work in this sequence
- Lay paper towel across the floor and run a short cycle — Where the paper wets first tells you front or underneath, which is the split the rest of this page depends on.
- Note whether there is foam in the tub at the end — Foam means the detergent is the fault, not the seal. Run an empty cycle with no detergent to confirm.
- Check the supply fitting and the tap with the machine idle — Anything wet while the machine is doing nothing is mains water. Close the tap first and diagnose second.
What to do before the panel comes off
Safety
Before any panel comes off, take the power away at the plug or at the breaker. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, which is why the order is isolate first and open second.
Models in the DSD family — This profile generalizes over every listing in the roster below, and stops where the roster stops.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| DSD565* | asko:dishwasher:dsd |
Where the owner line is
Stop when the water is coming from the base tray with the door seal intact. That means a tub seal or a spray arm bearing, both of which mean laying the machine over, and both of which are service work on this roster.
Nearest pages of this class
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
