Start here
On the AGD roster the useful first question is whether the machine is producing no heat at all or producing heat that cannot get out. The family covers two models, AGD67 and AGD70. Clothes that come out hot and damp point one way; clothes that come out cool point another, and the two lead to different halves of this page.
How it presents
- The load comes out hot but still damp — Heat is being produced and moisture is not leaving. That is an exhaust problem, and it is the commonest finding on this page.
- Cycles take far longer than they used to — Gradual loss of airflow. Lint accumulates over months, so the decline is slow enough that nobody notices a day it changed.
- Heat works for part of a cycle and then stops — A cutout opening on temperature and resetting as things cool. Almost always a restriction rather than a failed device.
- NEAR MISS - the cycle stops part way through repeatedly — A cycle that will not complete is its own fault path and has its own page for this family.
Causes, most likely first on this roster
- Restricted exhaust duct, vent hood or lint path — First on this roster and the commonest finding on the page. Crushed flexible duct behind the machine, a long run with too many bends, a vent hood flap that no longer opens, or years of lint in the duct all reduce airflow until a cutout opens.
- Blocked lint filter or filter housing — A filter that looks clean can still be blinded by fabric-softener residue, which passes water poorly and is invisible.
- Thermal cutout or thermostat opened — Heat that works for part of a cycle and then stops is the classic signature of a cutout operating on temperature.
- Control, timer or moisture-sensor fault — This explains a machine where the duct is clear, the supply is good and the cutouts are closed, and it is where owner diagnosis runs out.
- Body: Ordered by what is found rather than by what is suspected. Lint and duct restriction account for the large majority of no-heat calls on a dryer of any make, and they are also the only entries on the list that are a fire risk in their own right.
The order to work in
- Clean the lint filter and the housing below it — The filter is routine; the housing is not, and lint packs into it where nobody looks.
- Feel the load at the end of a cycle — Hot and damp means heat is being made and air is not moving. Cool and damp means heat is not being made at all.
- Go outside and watch the vent hood while the machine runs — A flap that barely moves is the clearest airflow test available and it needs no tools.
- Body: The order below follows the air rather than the parts list. On the AGD roster the thermal protection is downstream of the airflow, so checking airflow first is what stops a good cutout being replaced for a duct problem.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before working on it; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. On a gas listing, close the appliance shut-off valve before disturbing any gas fitting, and if you smell gas at any point, leave the building and call the gas utility or emergency services from outside rather than investigating.
Models in the AGD family — This page generalizes over every listing in the roster below; where the models diverge for this fault the text says so, and where it does not, they behave alike.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| AGD67 | arctic-wind:dryer:agd |
| AGD70 | arctic-wind:dryer:agd |
Where the owner line is
The owner line on this roster is the cabinet panel. Cleaning the lint path, clearing and reseating the duct, checking the vent hood and checking the breaker are all owner work. Testing an element, an igniter or a gas valve is not, and a gas listing is service work regardless of confidence.
Other pages for this family
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
