The short answer
Amarilis A cabinets leak at the defrost drain far more often than anywhere else. Two model numbers carry this family badge, and the matrix on this page is the list. The drain carries debris-laden melt water through the coldest part of the appliance on every cycle, which is exactly the recipe for a tube that silts and then freezes shut.
Symptoms on these models
- Water pooling under the crisper drawers — A shallow pool under the salad drawers that returns within a day of being mopped up.
- A sheet of ice on the freezer floor — A hard sheet of ice under the bottom freezer basket, built in layers one defrost cycle at a time.
- Water at the front of the floor, usually after a cycle — A puddle that returns hours after being mopped tracks the defrost cycle rather than the supply.
- Water running down the inside of the door liner — Moisture on the liner and shelves means the cabinet is running above its setpoint or the door is not sealing.
- Damp or buckled flooring under the appliance — Flooring that has darkened or lifted under the cabinet, which dates the leak far earlier than the puddle does.
- NEAR MISS — water only in the drain pan at the back — That is the system working. Melt water collecting in the pan and evaporating is normal and needs nothing.
Causes, most likely first on the A line
- Ice maker fill tube or a leaking inlet valve — First here: this family is a tight one — two model numbers under one badge and a valve that no longer seats is the one source that is both pressurised and inside the cabinet, which makes it the most damaging of the four.
- Blocked or frozen defrost drain — Second because a blocked defrost drain is still the commonest source of interior water, and it is distinguished from the cause above it by arriving in cycles rather than constantly.
- Door seal admitting humid air — Third: condensation inside the cabinet, and a contributor to the drain overload above.
- Drain pan, drain tube or a supply joint at the back — Last, and it needs the unit pulled out, which is why it sits at the end of the order.
What to check first, second, third
- Take the ice bin out and look underneath the module and along the fill tube — A weeping valve puts water into the freezer continuously.
- Close the household water valve and watch — A leak that stops is upstream of the ice maker; one that continues is not.
- Clear the defrost drain and check the freezer floor for a slab — Third: the standard interior source, and the one that produces water under the crispers rather than in the freezer.
- Move the unit and inspect the pan, the drain tube and the joints — Last, because everything behind the cabinet needs the appliance out and is worth doing in one visit.
Safety first
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker and mop up first; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Clear a frozen drain with warm water and patience rather than a stiff wire — the tubing behind the liner is thin, and turning a blockage into a hole is not a repair anyone can undo.
Models in the A family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| A8TXNGFB*0* | amarilis:refrigerator:a |
| A8TXNWFB*0* | amarilis:refrigerator:a |
The service-call line
Call when the water turns out to be pressurised supply water, when the drain will not clear from the freezer side, or when the floor has started to suffer. On the A line the owner side is the drain outlet, the gasket and the drain pan, and everything behind the liner is not.
Other faults covered for this family
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
