What this means on these models
An Amarilis A that has become loud is usually transmitting rather than failing. The model matrix on this page lists two model numbers under this family badge. Levelling, a stray object against a fan blade and a blade catching ice account for most of it, and only one item on the ranked list below is actually urgent.
The noises worth acting on
- A chirp, squeal or grind from inside the freezer — Sound that disappears the moment the freezer door opens is the evaporator fan by definition — nothing else is switched that way.
- A buzz or hum that has become noticeably louder — A compressor on tired mounts transmits into the floor, so the cabinet appears to get louder without the compressor changing at all.
- A knock or thump on start and stop — Tubing that has shifted onto the cabinet transmits every compressor start as a single knock.
- Gurgling, popping or a running-water sound — These are normal on every cabinet of this type and they get louder in a quiet room rather than in a failing appliance.
- NEAR MISS — the noise comes with a warm cabinet — Then the noise is secondary and the cooling failure is the page you want; fix the cooling and the noise usually goes with it.
What it usually is, in order
- Start relay clicking and retrying — First here because the matrix on this page covers only a handful of closely related models — of the noises this cabinet makes, the repeating click is the only one that is actually urgent, so it is ruled in or out before the rest.
- Evaporator fan catching ice or a worn bearing — Second because the freezer-door test settles it in seconds, and because a chirp that "comes and goes" is usually coming and going with the door.
- Condenser fan or debris in the machine compartment — Third because it is the same class of fault as the one above it in the other compartment, reached by moving the cabinet rather than emptying the freezer.
- Mounts, levelling and tubing contact — Last: these explain a noise that has grown rather than appeared, and they are adjustments rather than repairs.
The check order on these models
- Listen for an even, repeating click with no compressor run behind it — This is the one noise on the page that should not be left alone.
- Confirm whether the cabinet is still holding temperature — A click plus a warming cabinet changes the page you are on; a click with normal cooling is worth watching rather than acting on.
- Open the freezer and hold the door switch in — With the urgent case cleared, this separates the evaporator fan from everything else in one test.
- Move the unit, watch the condenser fan and check the feet — These are the machine-compartment and cabinet checks, and they are done in one go.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. If you hold the freezer door switch in to test the evaporator fan, keep your fingers well clear of the blade: that switch exists to stop the fan when the door opens. Never run the cabinet with the machine-compartment cover off.
Models in the A family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| A8TXNGFB*0* | amarilis:refrigerator:a |
| A8TXNWFB*0* | amarilis:refrigerator:a |
Where owner work stops
Call once the sound has been located behind the freezer rear panel, or when it tracks the compressor exactly. On the A line an owner can level the cabinet, clear an obstruction and say which compartment the noise comes from; replacing a fan motor, a relay or a compressor mount is a service call.
Other faults covered for this family
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