Start here
Start with a machine that is not standing level: on the NFW models it accounts for more of this complaint than the rest of the list put together. This line is a close pair of models rather than a spread, so the build is effectively uniform and the seal-and-fit causes come forward.
What this looks like from the front
- A single hard thump at the start of every spin — Then it settles, and the rest of the spin sounds normal.
- NEAR MISS — the noise comes with water on the floor — Then the leak is the fault to read about first, and the noise is a symptom.
The ranking that matters here on the NFW line
- A machine that is not standing level — Ranked first here — it costs nothing to rule out and it makes every other noise on this list louder.
- A drain pump impeller fouled — Second here — it makes a hard, regular noise that people read as serious, and it is reachable without a panel.
- A drum bearing that has begun to fail — Third here — it is the expensive one, and it is worth identifying correctly before anything is ordered.
- Shipping bolts still fitted — Fourth here — it applies to a machine installed recently, which is a story you will know.
- Body: Two closely related models means what holds for one holds for the other, which is why the order below is stated without a hedge. Here the posture changes no positions — the causes on this page are far enough apart in likelihood that nothing moves.
The order of checks, and the reason for it
- Push each top corner down in turn and watch for movement — Any rock at all means one foot is short, and that is enough to turn a spin into a walk.
- Listen for whether the noise is only present during the drain — A noise tied to drain and nothing else has located itself.
- With the machine off, spin the empty drum by hand and listen — A rumble that rises with speed, and grit you can feel through the drum, is the bearing.
- Look at the back panel for bolts through the casing — A newly installed machine that bangs violently on spin has almost always kept its bolts.
- Body: Two closely related models share a layout, so a check that works on one works on the other and the order below does not change between them. Every check pairs with the cause at the same position, which is what makes a negative result useful rather than merely disappointing.
What to do before you touch it
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Shut both taps before opening the pump filter, put a shallow tray and towels down first, and expect water. A washing machine is heavy and top-loaded with a concrete counterweight: never tip one onto its back to look underneath, and never run it with a panel off.
Models in the NFW family — Every model this page covers, exactly as the model line is recorded. Nothing outside this table is a model number, and nothing on this page claims to cover a model that is not in it.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| NFW5800D*+ | amana:washer:nfw |
| NFW5800H** | amana:washer:nfw |
The line between a fix and a call
Call when the noise rises with drum speed and you can feel grit through the drum by hand, when the machine walks despite being level and loaded properly, or when a burning smell comes with the noise. Stop the machine and call at once if there is smoke, a scorched smell, or a breaker that trips when it spins. Of the causes listed above, most are owner checks and the last is not — that is the line.
Pages alongside this one
- Amana NFW washer — a cycle that stalls or will not finish: what changes on this model line
- Amana NFW washer — a machine that will not drain: what changes on this model line
- Amana NFW washer — water on the floor: what changes on this model line
- Amana NFW washer — a machine that will not start: what changes on this model line
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
