The short answer
On the SR models this complaint is most often ice bridging the drain trough rather than anything deeper. This page covers a single model, so every unit in service is the same machine. The order below is settled by how this line is built, not by what is true of the brand as a whole.
What you observe
- Ice growing low on the freezer back wall — Building upward from the trough rather than as a frost sheet across the whole panel.
- Droplets or a damp film on the inside of the doors — Warm room air meeting cold cabinet air, which means a gap somewhere along the seal.
- A trail of ice down the back of the ice bin — Spill from the fill that freezes on the way down.
- NEAR MISS — water in the cabinet with a warm interior — Cooling is the fault to read about first; this water is a symptom of it.
Causes, most likely first on the SR line
- Ice bridging the drain trough — Ranked first here — the two are the same fault at different stages.
- A cracked or displaced drain pan — Second here — a pan only overflows once the water has already got that far.
- Condensation in an overloaded crisper — Third here — the water is normal in origin, but it is worth naming so nobody strips a drain over damp lettuce.
- Body: With one model in scope there is no spread of builds to hedge against, so a design-inherent fault ranks above an age-related one and the list below says so plainly. No cause changes place against a ranking that ignored the build, which is itself the finding: nothing about this line pulls one of them forward.
Check in this order, and why
- Look at the back wall of the freezer for a build-up of ice low down — Ice growing from the trough upward means the meltwater has nowhere to go and is refreezing where it sits.
- Slide the pan out from under the cabinet and look at it in the light — A hairline crack in a pan holds water until it is moved, which is why this is a look rather than a touch.
- Note whether the water is only ever inside a drawer — Produce releases moisture; a drawer packed tight and set to high humidity will hold it.
- Body: One model means one layout, so the order below is the order of the panels you would open, and there is no second build to hedge against. Each check answers the cause above it, in the same order, so a clean result moves you down the list rather than sideways.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Water and an electrical appliance are a bad pair: dry the floor before you pull the cabinet out, and never work on a wet floor with the unit plugged in. Shut the water supply off at its valve before touching any fitting, and do not clear a drain with a metal probe.
Models in the SR family — Every model this page covers, exactly as the model line is recorded. Nothing outside this table is a model number, and nothing on this page claims to cover a model that is not in it.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| SR3711AMS | amana:refrigerator:sr |
When to call a technician
Call when the water is coming from a fitting you cannot reach dry, when the drain will not clear with warm water, or when the interior floods again within a day of being cleared. Call at once if water is reaching wiring or a socket — that stops being a leak and becomes an electrical fault.
Nearest pages of this class
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