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On the FC models this complaint is most often an inlet valve that is not opening rather than anything deeper. This line is a close pair of models rather than a spread, so the build is effectively uniform and the seal-and-fit causes come forward. The order below is settled by how this line is built, not by what is true of the brand as a whole.
What this looks like from the front
- The bin is empty and stays empty — No cubes at all over a day, with the freezer otherwise behaving normally.
- The maker cycles and no water arrives — You can hear the arm turn, and nothing follows it.
- NEAR MISS — there is ice, but it tastes or smells wrong — That is a filter and storage question, not a production fault, and it is a different page.
The ranking that matters here on the FC line
- An inlet valve that is not opening — Ranked first here — it is distinguished from its neighbours on this list by whether water arrives at all.
- A water filter blocked or seated wrong — Second here — it throttles rather than stops, so it usually shows as small or hollow cubes before it shows as none.
- A harvest heater that has failed — Third here — it produces a maker that fills and then holds the cubes instead of one that does nothing.
- Body: Two closely related models means what holds for one holds for the other, which is why the order below is stated without a hedge. No cause changes place against a ranking that ignored the build, which is itself the finding: nothing about this line pulls one of them forward.
The order of checks, and the reason for it
- Watch the fill cup at the back of the ice maker through one cycle — A cycle that turns and takes no water places the fault at the valve rather than inside the maker.
- Run the dispenser, if there is one, and watch the flow — A slow, thin stream at the dispenser and no ice is the same restriction seen twice.
- Note whether the tray is full of ice that never drops — Full tray, no delivery, no jam visible — that is the release, not the fill.
- Body: Two closely related models share a layout, so a check that works on one works on the other and the order below does not change between them. Each check answers the cause above it, in the same order, so a clean result moves you down the list rather than sideways.
What to do before you touch it
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Shut the water off at the supply valve before touching any fitting, and never thaw a frozen line with a flame or a heat gun: the tubing is plastic and the cabinet behind it is not something you want to set alight. Do not chip at fused ice with a knife or a screwdriver.
Models in the FC family — Every model this page covers, exactly as the model line is recorded. Nothing outside this table is a model number, and nothing on this page claims to cover a model that is not in it.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| FC2-671 | amana:refrigerator:fc |
| FC2-671.IM | amana:refrigerator:fc |
The line between a fix and a call
Call when the freezer is genuinely cold, the water supply is proven, the arm is free and the bin still fills with nothing — at that point the fault is inside the maker or its module. Call at once if you find water tracking along wiring or pooling under the cabinet, because that is an electrical question before it is an ice question. Of the causes listed above, most are owner checks and the last is not — that is the line.
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