The short answer
When the ART refrigerators stops making ice, the fault is usually in front of the maker rather than inside it. On these models a fill valve that is not opening is the first thing this page would have you rule out. None of the causes below needs a technician to rule out — only the repair might.
What you observe on these models
- The bin is empty and the maker looks untouched — Nothing has been attempted, which points at the trigger rather than the mechanism.
- The cubes are hollow, small or half formed — A partial fill is a flow problem, not a maker problem.
- There is ice on the shelf under the maker rather than in the bin — Water is going where it should not before it freezes.
- NEAR MISS — water is leaking at the same time — An overfilling maker does both, so read the leak page for this family too.
Causes, most likely first on this family
- Water inlet valve not opening — Low supply pressure produces the same complaint as a failed valve, so the supply is worth proving before the part is blamed. Ranked first here: the commonest of the four on this family. One design carries every cabinet size in this family, so it holds across the line.
- Supply line kinked or the shut-off barely open — A line crushed behind the appliance when it was pushed back restricts the flow enough to starve a fill without stopping it. Second, because it produces almost the same complaint from a different part.
- Ice bridged solid in the bin — Bridging follows a door left open or a power cut, so it usually arrives with a story attached. Third, because the two above account for most of what arrives with this complaint.
- Household supply pressure below what the valve needs — The manufacturer’s range for supply pressure is printed in the installation instructions, and a supply that never meets it is not an appliance fault. Last on this page: real, but uncommon on these cabinets.
- Body: Against the brand-wide order, airflow causes move up and installation causes down: the ladder spans cabinet sizes, and the largest cabinets in it load the airflow path hardest, which is where this fault shows first.
Check in this order, and why
- Watch a fill: a valve that opens buzzes for a few seconds, and you should be able to hear it. — It leads: the ranking puts this cause first, so its check goes first too.
- Pull the appliance out, follow the line for a kink and check the shut-off is fully open. — It sits here because it rules a cause in rather than out, which saves a step later.
- Empty the bin completely and check the level arm or sensor is free to fall. — Last, because it confirms what the checks above have already narrowed.
Before you take a panel off
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Leave the door switch wired as it is: it cuts power to the evaporator fan for a reason. Shut the water supply off before disturbing the valve or the fill line, and never thaw a fill tube with a flame or a heat gun.
Models in the ART family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| ART104TFD*0* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART106TFD*0* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART308FFD* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART316TFD*0* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART318FFD* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART348FFF*** | amana:refrigerator:art |
When to call a technician
Call once water has been proved to reach the appliance and the maker still does nothing: the fault is then inside the maker, and a module is not a part to fit by guesswork.
The other faults covered for this family
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
