The short answer
Most of the noises reported on the ART refrigerators come from four places, and separating them is a matter of timing rather than of tools. On these models a cabinet off its feet is the first thing this page would have you rule out. The list below ends with the one cause on it that is not owner work.
What you observe on these models
- A rattle from the back that stops when the compressor stops — The timing places it on the condenser side.
- A low hum that is louder in the next room than in the kitchen — Structure-borne noise travels; airborne noise does not.
- A light plastic chatter from under the cabinet — Something loose is being shaken rather than something turning.
- NEAR MISS — a hiss together with a chemical smell — Stop, disconnect the appliance and call a technician.
Causes, most likely first on this family
- Cabinet not level or not evenly loaded — Floors move more than appliances do, so a unit that was quiet for years can start buzzing after a floor is laid or a mat is taken up. First, because it accounts for every observable above without needing a second fault. One design carries every cabinet size in this family, so it holds across the line.
- Drain pan chattering in its rails — Water in a displaced pan ends up on the floor as well, so the noise and a small leak often arrive together. It ranks second — the fault the first check leaves standing.
- Defrost timer or damper motor stepping — A mechanical timer clicks as it steps and a damper motor drives its flap with a short whirr; both are normal and both worry owners. Third: a real cause on these cabinets, but a less frequent one.
- Compressor mounts hardened with age — The sound is a low drone that is loudest in the room next door, and that is what tells you it is structural rather than mechanical. Last, which is exactly why the checks above are worth spending first.
- Body: Against the brand-wide order, airflow causes move up and installation causes down: the ladder spans cabinet sizes, and the largest cabinets in it load the airflow path hardest, which is where this fault shows first.
Check in this order, and why
- Rock each front corner in turn and wind the feet down until nothing moves. — First, because it settles the top of the ranking before anything else is touched.
- Cut the power, look under the back of the cabinet and seat the pan properly in its rails. — Next, once the check above has come back clean.
- Note the time of each noise for a day: a scheduled click is a control doing its job, a continuous noise is not. — Last, so that nothing further is spent until the cheaper checks are exhausted.
Cut the power before anything else
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. A loaded cabinet is heavy and top-heavy with the doors open, so empty it and get help before moving it. Do not reach into a running fan to find a noise. Cut the power, turn the blade by hand, and refit the panel before powering up.
Models in the ART family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| ART104TFD*0* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART106TFD*0* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART308FFD* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART316TFD*0* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART318FFD* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART348FFF*** | amana:refrigerator:art |
When to call a technician
Call when the noise survives the panel screws, the feet and the pan, because what is left turns behind a panel. Call at once for a hard knock from the compressor that arrives together with a loss of cooling.
The other faults covered for this family
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
