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Water on the floor under the AQF line comes from one of three places: the defrost drain, the supply line to the ice maker or dispenser, or condensation that was never meant to leave the cabinet. Six model numbers carry this family badge, and the matrix on this page is the list. Where the water appears — inside the cabinet, under the crisper, or at the front of the floor — names the source before anything is dismantled.
Symptoms on these models
- A sheet of ice on the freezer floor — Ice under the bottom basket builds in layers, one defrost cycle at a time.
- Water at the front of the floor, usually after a cycle — A puddle that returns hours after being mopped tracks the defrost cycle rather than the supply.
- A steady drip at the back, near the floor — A supply or dispenser line joint weeping, or a drain pan that has cracked or shifted off its seat.
- Damp or buckled flooring under the appliance — A slow leak that has been running for a while, which is worth treating as urgent even when the volume looks small.
- NEAR MISS — water only in the drain pan at the back — Water sitting in the drain pan at the back is the defrost system finishing correctly and needs nothing.
Ranked causes for these models
- Door seal, alignment or a door held ajar — First here: six model numbers is enough of a span that two units with the same badge can differ in what is fitted so the check with the best return is the free one, and a gasket that has taken a set is visible in a paper test.
- Blocked defrost drain — Second, and the one that explains a puddle that returns on a schedule rather than continuously.
- Supply or dispenser line joint — Third — and it moves to the front of the queue the moment the floor under the appliance is affected.
- Drain pan or the drain tube outlet — Last, and it is a look rather than a measurement — the pan is either cracked, displaced or fine.
What to check first, second, third
- Close each door on a strip of paper at several points — First because it is free, and because a door that is not sealing is both a cause of condensation and the reason drains overload.
- Check the doors close squarely and nothing fouls them — A shelf, a drawer or a bin pushing a door off its seal keeps the gasket open in a way that is easy to stop noticing.
- Clear the defrost drain at the rear of the freezer floor — Third: with the humidity source addressed, the drain is where the resulting water has been failing to go.
- Shut the water off and check the back of the unit — Shut the water off and check the back of the cabinet last: it needs an hour of waiting to be conclusive.
Safety first
Safety
Dry the floor and isolate the appliance at its breaker before working — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, and standing water around a live appliance is the real hazard. If water has reached a socket or a lead, switch that circuit off at the consumer unit before touching either. Close the household water valve before breaking any supply joint.
Models in the AQF family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| AQF1201TRW | amana:refrigerator:aqf |
| AQF1613TEW | amana:refrigerator:aqf |
| AQF1613TEW* | amana:refrigerator:aqf |
| AQF2013TEW | amana:refrigerator:aqf |
| AQF2013TEW* | amana:refrigerator:aqf |
| AQF2023TEW | amana:refrigerator:aqf |
When to call a technician
Call when the water is pressurised supply water, when the floor under the appliance has started to suffer, or when the drain will not clear from the freezer side. On the AQF line the owner side is the drain outlet, the gasket and the drain pan; anything that needs the liner opened or a water joint remade is a service call.
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Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
