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On ADFS models the useful first split is between soil that was redeposited and soil that was never removed. Greasy residue and gritty residue point in opposite directions, and separating them first saves the visit, and that single distinction points at different halves of the list. Start with water arriving too cool and leave a worn wash pump or a failed heater until everything cheaper has been excluded.
The observables
- Greasy film on everything including the interior — Uniform rather than patchy, which points at heat and chemistry rather than at spray.
- Detergent still in the dispenser at the end — The cycle ran without it, so nothing about the wash mattered.
- Cloudy glassware that does not wipe off — Etching and scale build over months and affect everything equally.
- Standing water in the sump before a cycle — The machine is starting each wash with the last load in it.
- NEAR MISS - dishes are clean but soaking wet — Drying is a rinse aid and heat question rather than a washing question, and it is not what this page covers.
Causes, most likely first on this line
- Water arriving too cool — The leading cause on these models: detergent needs heat to work, and a machine fed from a long cold run starts its wash well below where it should be. Greasy residue and a white film are the usual result.
- Detergent, rinse aid or a dispenser that does not open — Second: rinse aid is a separate question and it is the one behind spotting and poor drying rather than behind soil left on the plate.
- A loaded or partly blocked filter — Third, and worth excluding before going further: the filter assembly in the sump is what keeps washed-off soil from being pumped straight back over the dishes. Once it carries a mat of debris the machine recirculates dirty water, and every load comes out gritty however good the detergent is.
- A worn wash pump or a failed heater — Last: it is the least likely of the four and the most expensive to be wrong about: this ranks last because every cause above it produces the same disappointing load for the price of ten minutes, and because replacing either is a real repair.
The order to work in
- Prove what temperature the water arrives at — Run the hot tap at the sink until it is properly hot, then start the cycle. A noticeable improvement points at the supply rather than the machine.
- Check the dispenser has actually opened — Check nothing in the front of the rack blocks the flap from swinging open, and use fresh detergent for the test.
- Lift the filter out and look at it — Unclip the filter assembly from the sump, rinse it under a tap until the mesh is actually open, and check the well beneath it for glass, seeds or a label.
Before any panel comes off
Safety
Isolate the machine before you work on it, because a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Never defeat the door latch to watch a cycle run with the door open; the spray is hot and it is under pressure.
When this stops being owner work
The line is whether the machine is doing its part: full fill, strong spray, hot water and an open dispenser. If all four are true and the dishes are still dirty, the problem is not one an owner can reach.
Same line, other symptoms
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
