The short answer
An AEG that stops mid-cycle with wet clothes has usually filled its water tank. Empty it and restart. A cycle that ends early with damp clothes is the moisture sensors instead, filmed over with softener residue. A cycle that runs on far too long points at a blinded heat exchanger. A board or compressor fault is last.
What you observe
- It stops part-way with the load still wet — The water tank is full.
- It declares itself finished on damp clothes — The moisture sensors are reading wrong.
- A greyish film on the metal strips in the drum — Fabric softener residue on the sensors.
- Cycles running far longer than they used to — The heat exchanger is matted with lint.
- NEAR MISS — a long cool-down at the end — Programmed on most cycles.
Causes, most likely first on this brand
- Water tank full — First because a condensing machine must store everything it takes out of the load, and the tank fills faster than owners expect. The machine then stops mid-cycle rather than running with nowhere to put the water.
- Moisture sensors filmed with softener residue — Second, and it gives the opposite symptom: the machine ends early because the film insulates the sensor bars and the load reads as drier than it is.
- Heat exchanger matted with lint — Third: the cycle runs on and on because the load really is not drying. Nothing has failed electrically, and the fix is a clean rather than a part.
- Drain hose blocked, or a board fault — Last. A machine plumbed to a drain can be stopped by a blocked or raised hose, and a genuine board fault is uncommon on this platform.
Check in this order, and why
- Empty the water tank and restart — Free, and it is the top cause on this class.
- Note whether it ends early or runs long — Early means sensors; long means the exchanger.
- Wipe the metal sensor strips in the drum — Ten minutes, and it settles the early-finish cases.
- Open the lower flap and look at the exchanger — Left until here because it explains long cycles only.
What an owner can safely check
- Empty the water tank and refit it fully — Check it seats home, or the machine will stop again.
About 10 min
- Wipe the sensor strips with a little white vinegar — Then wipe them dry. Do not use an abrasive.
Tools: clothAbout 15 min
- Clean the door filters and check they click home — A filter left half-seated feeds lint to the exchanger.
About 15 min
- Open the lower flap and clean the heat exchanger — Follow the instructions for your machine. Never bend the fins.
Tools: soft brushAbout 30 min
- STOP HERE if it still stops with everything clean — Sensor wiring and board work is a service call.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the dryer before opening any panel or removing the heat exchanger; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. The exchanger is a refrigeration component with thin fins and sealed tubing — clean it gently and never lever, cut or puncture it. Do not pour the collected condensate down a drinking tap or reuse it, and never run the machine with a filter missing.
When to call a technician
Call when the tank empties properly, the sensors are clean, the exchanger is clear and the machine still stops or misjudges the load — the sensor circuit, the condensate pump or the board is then the answer. Mention which way it fails, early or long, because that points at different parts. Stop and unplug the machine if you smell burning.
Nearest pages of this class
What this page does not cover
This page is written for the brand and the appliance class, not for one family or model line. Where a family- or model-specific page exists for your unit, that page is the more specific answer and you should start there. Deliberately absent: tank capacities, cycle times, sensor and pump part identifiers and fault-code meanings, all of which differ between the heat-pump, condenser and vented families.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
