The short answer
On an AEG dishwasher, a machine that will not start most often comes back to a latched base-tray flood switch, with a door latch that is not confirming closed close behind. Because the machine measures so much of its own behaviour, most faults arrive as a code that is really a timeout — a fill, a drain or a temperature that did not arrive in the window the program allows. That puts the first move in your hands rather than a technician’s: work the checks below in order and stop at the first one that explains what you are seeing.
What you are seeing
- What this fault looks like, and which observations point somewhere else.
- the panel lights but the machine does nothing when start is pressed
- the machine beeps or flashes and returns to standby
- the program appears to start and then stops within moments
- the door will not latch, or latches without the machine acknowledging it
- Not this fault: if the panel behaves oddly rather than refusing, read the control page
- Not this fault: if a breaker trips as you press start, go to the electrical-safety page
Ranked causes on this platform
- Ranked for an AEG dishwasher, which runs a sensor-driven controller that reports a fault code on the display. No measured frequency exists for this address, so the order is platform judgement rather than a share.
- A latched base-tray flood switch — Why: On this platform a trace of water in the base tray latches the machine into a protective state, and it presents as a machine that will not start at all rather than as a leak.
- A door latch that is not confirming closed — Why: No dishwasher will run without a proven latch signal, and this is the most common reason of all for a machine that refuses to start.
- A child lock holding the panel — Why: It disables input by design, which is indistinguishable from a dead panel unless the indicator is noticed.
- The supply rather than the machine — Why: A tripped breaker, a switched spur or a fault-interrupter under the sink accounts for most dark panels.
- A control lock or delay start — Why: The machine is doing exactly what it was told, and the only evidence is a small indicator most owners have never looked for.
What to check, in order
- The order follows the ranking above: most likely and cheapest first, nothing needing a meter until everything else is eliminated.
- A latched base-tray flood switch — Because: on this platform a trace of water in the base tray latches the machine into a protective state.
- A door latch that is not confirming closed — Because: no dishwasher will run without a proven latch signal.
- A child lock holding the panel — Because: it disables input by design, which is indistinguishable from a dead panel unless the indicator is noticed.
Checks you can safely do yourself
- Isolate the appliance before any panel comes off, and stop at the first step that explains the fault.
- Tip the machine gently backwards onto a towel to clear the tray, then restore it upright and retry. — Tools: a towel and a second pair of hands — Time estimate: a quarter of an hour
- Close the door slowly, listen for a firm catch, then press it in and try again. — Tools: nothing — Time estimate: a few minutes
- Hold the marked button until the indicator clears. — Tools: the owner documentation — Time estimate: a few minutes
- Check the breaker, any switched spur and any fault-interrupter serving the kitchen. — Tools: a torch — Time estimate: a quarter of an hour
- Stop condition: Stop there: the next step means metering live terminals or opening a sealed system.
Safety first
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel, because a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Isolate the circuit before reaching into the sump, and treat the water in a machine that has just run as hot enough to scald. Never defeat the door latch to run the machine open; the latch switch exists to stop the wash the moment the door moves.
When to call a technician
Call a technician when the supply is proven good, the door latches firmly and the panel is still dark, or when the machine locks out again after the base tray has been dried. A dead machine with a live supply usually means a protective device or the control, and neither is tested with the machine live.
The fact bundle for this address was empty, so no warehouse figure appears. Every number on the page is a program safety constant, cited to its publisher. — Sources
General guidance- 1910.147 — The control of hazardous energy (lockout/tagout) — Occupational Safety and Health Administration, fetched 2026-09-06
Other faults documented for this brand and appliance. — Nearest pages of the same kind
What this page does not cover
This page is generalized across every AEG dishwasher family and model number: no family fault list, no model parts list, and no measured figure from the program warehouse. Where a family- or model-specific page exists it goes deeper, and it should be preferred over this one.
Links: - [Common AEG Dishwasher Problems](/blog/aeg-dishwasher-problems) - [AEG Dishwasher: Abnormal Noise or Vibration](/blog/aeg-dishwasher-abnormal-noise) - [AEG Dishwasher: Does Not Clean or Dry](/blog/aeg-dishwasher-cleaning-performance)
Adjacent pages for what this one rules out. — Where to go next
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
