The short answer
On an AEG dishwasher, controls, display or an error indication most often comes back to a temperature sensor reading out of range, with a latched state after a supply interruption close behind. AEG machines are current-generation European appliances: sensor-driven, code-reporting, and built around a base tray with a flood switch that will take the machine out of service the moment it sees water. The first checks below are owner work, but the ranking here points at a repair that ends in a service call, so do them to confirm rather than to fix.
What you are seeing
- What this fault looks like, and which observations point somewhere else.
- buttons that respond intermittently or that select the wrong program
- a panel that lights and then goes dark part-way through a cycle
- the machine ignoring the program that was selected
- Not this fault: if the machine will not respond at all and the panel is dark, read the start page
Ranked causes on this platform
- Ranked for an AEG dishwasher, which runs a sensor-driven controller that reports a fault code on the display. No measured frequency exists for this address, so the order is platform judgement rather than a share.
- A temperature sensor reading out of range — Why: A sensor-driven controller cannot behave sensibly on a bad input, so a single sensor fault produces several unrelated-looking symptoms.
- A latched state after a supply interruption — Why: Most control complaints follow a supply event, and a full power-down clears more of them than any replacement part.
- A relay on the control board — Why: Boards fail one output at a time, so a machine that fills and drains but never heats is pointing at one relay rather than at the whole control.
- A child lock or control lock that is engaged — Why: It is designed to make the panel refuse input, so it produces exactly the complaint an owner reads as a failed control.
- A door latch switch that is not confirming closed — Why: The control will not run a program it cannot prove the door is closed for, and it usually says so with a code rather than plainly.
What to check, in order
- The order follows the ranking above: most likely and cheapest first, nothing needing a meter until everything else is eliminated.
- A temperature sensor reading out of range — Because: a sensor-driven controller cannot behave sensibly on a bad input, so a single sensor fault produces several unrelated-looking symptoms.
- A latched state after a supply interruption — Because: most control complaints follow a supply event, and a full power-down clears more of them than any replacement part.
- A relay on the control board — Because: boards fail one output at a time, so a machine that fills and drains but never heats is pointing at.
Checks you can safely do yourself
- Isolate the appliance before any panel comes off, and stop at the first step that explains the fault.
- Note whether the machine fails at the same phase each time, which is what a sensor fault does. — Tools: nothing — Time estimate: a short observation
- Switch the machine off at the wall or the breaker, wait several minutes, restore power and try a short program. — Tools: nothing — Time estimate: a quarter of an hour
- Record exactly which functions still work; that pattern is what a technician needs. — Tools: nothing — Time estimate: a short observation
- Look for a padlock indicator and hold the marked button until it clears. — Tools: the owner documentation — Time estimate: a few minutes
- Stop condition: Stop there: the next step means metering live terminals or opening a sealed system.
Safety first
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel, because a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Isolate the circuit before reaching into the sump, and treat the water in a machine that has just run as hot enough to scald. Never defeat the door latch to run the machine open; the latch switch exists to stop the wash the moment the door moves.
When to call a technician
Call a technician when a code returns immediately after a full power-down, when the panel is unresponsive with the door proven closed, or when the fault has to be traced into the door harness or the board. Do not work on a control with the machine live.
The fact bundle for this address was empty, so no warehouse figure appears. Every number on the page is a program safety constant, cited to its publisher. — Sources
General guidance- 1910.147 — The control of hazardous energy (lockout/tagout) — Occupational Safety and Health Administration, fetched 2026-09-06
Other faults documented for this brand and appliance. — Nearest pages of the same kind
What this page does not cover
This page is generalized across every AEG dishwasher family and model number: no family fault list, no model parts list, and no measured figure from the program warehouse. Where a family- or model-specific page exists it goes deeper, and it should be preferred over this one.
Links: - [Common AEG Dishwasher Problems](/blog/aeg-dishwasher-problems) - [AEG Dishwasher: Abnormal Noise or Vibration](/blog/aeg-dishwasher-abnormal-noise) - [AEG Dishwasher: Does Not Clean or Dry](/blog/aeg-dishwasher-cleaning-performance)
Adjacent pages for what this one rules out. — Where to go next
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
