Short answer
On this platform standing water is usually a blocked filter: it sits directly over the drain path, and it takes very little to stop the flow entirely. What puts it first on this machine: the cycle is long and the water charge small, so a marginal supply shows rather than being masked. The checks below follow that ranking, and the first need no tools.
What you observe
- Dirty water standing in the bottom of the tub at the end of every cycle — Water plus soil at the end of a cycle is a drain that could not clear.
- It has never drained properly since it was installed — A fault that dates from installation is an installation fault.
- Drainage got worse gradually, or water reappears in the tub after a finished cycle — Water returning after the cycle is a siphon rather than a blockage.
- NEAR MISS — the machine stops mid-cycle with a code — That is the machine reporting a fault it detected rather than a plain drain blockage, and the code changes the diagnosis.
Causes, most likely first on this platform
- A blocked filter or sump — The filter sits directly above the drain path. Load it with soil, a label or a fragment of glass and the machine cannot move water out of the tub, which leaves the familiar inch of dirty water at the end of a cycle. It ranks first here because the cycle is long and the water charge small, so a marginal supply shows rather than being masked.
- A disposer knockout plug or a blocked disposer connection — A dishwasher connected to a food waste disposer drains through a stub that is cast closed from the factory. If the knockout was never removed at installation, or the disposer is full, the machine has nowhere to send its water. Second rather than first — it was installed flush and its clearances were set once, by whoever fitted it — and the next thing to check.
- A kinked drain hose or a missing high loop — The drain hose must rise above the tub level before it falls to its connection. Without that loop the machine siphons; kinked behind a cabinet it cannot pump at all. Both are installation faults that show up years later. Third: real on this platform, and behind two causes that cost less to rule out.
Check in this order, and why
- Remove the filter and look into the sump below it — The commonest cause, the easiest access, and it needs no tools at all.
- Run the disposer with the tap on, then retry the drain — It clears a full disposer and it tests the connection in one move.
- Look at the drain hose run under the sink for a high loop and any kink — Visible under the sink in a minute, and it explains both slow drains and returning water.
What an owner can safely check
- Bail out the standing water, remove and rinse the filter, and clear the sump — Look before you reach: glass and staples collect in exactly this spot.
Tools: cup, cloth, brushAbout 25 min
- Run the disposer clear with cold water and retry a drain cycle — If the machine has never drained since it was fitted, the knockout plug is the likely answer and that is an installation correction.
About 15 min
- STOP at the first step needing a meter on live terminals or a sealed panel off — That is where owner checks end. Write down what came back clean: a technician who knows that spends the visit fixing rather than repeating it.
Before you open anything
Safety
Switch the dishwasher off at its breaker and shut the supply stop valve before reaching into the sump or disconnecting a hose — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Expect sharp objects in the sump: broken glass and staples end up there. Never disable the door latch to watch a cycle run.
When to call a technician
Call when the drain pump needs removing or when the machine reports a drain fault after the filter, the hose and the disposer connection are all clear. The other line is water backing up into the sink when the machine drains: that is a house drain problem and it needs a plumber rather than an appliance technician.
Nearest pages of this class
What this page does not cover
This is generalized information for the Porter Charles dishwasher as a class, not for one family or model line. Where a family- or model-specific page exists for your unit it is the more specific answer, it is linked among the pages above, and it supersedes this one wherever the two differ. Not covered here: part numbers, pump assemblies, air-gap fittings and the disassembly order, all of which differ by family and belong on the page for that family.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
