Maytag Dishwasher Error Code? Causes & Fix

Most Likely Cause#

A Maytag dishwasher error code is actually two codes in one. When the control board sees a fault it shows an F number and an E number: the F number identifies which system failed, and the E number pins down the exact fault within it. Read the two parts separately and you have a precise diagnosis before you pick up a tool. On basic MDB models the code shows as a blink pattern on the Status light — count the blinks, pause, count again — while premium models spell it out as, for example, F5-E1.

Most codes fall into a few systems: the control board itself, the fill and drain path, the door, and the sensors. Start with the system the F number names.

The Common Codes#

Reading and retrieving codes#

On a digital model the code is on screen. On a blink model, the Status light flashes the F number, pauses, then flashes the E number — so five blinks, pause, one blink is F5-E1. Count carefully, because some codes differ by a single blink; recording it on your phone in slow motion helps. To pull a stored code after the display clears, enter diagnostic mode by pressing any three buttons in order within a few seconds with the door closed.

The faults you can often fix yourself#

The fill and drain codes are the most owner-friendly. F6-E1 means the board opened the inlet valve but no water arrived — check the under-sink supply valve is open, the hose is not kinked, and the float is not stuck up. F8-E1 means the tub drained too slowly — clean the filter assembly (both the cylindrical and flat mesh), check the drain hose, and confirm the disposal knockout is clear. F5-E1 is a door-signal fault that often clears when you simply re-latch the door firmly. F3-E0 is an open temperature sensor: with the power off, reach the thermistor in the sump and reseat its plug, which is the usual cause; a healthy sensor reads about 50K ohms at room temperature. The board codes (F1-E1, F1-E2) sometimes clear after a five-minute power cycle if a surge caused a soft fault — but if they return immediately, the board or a harness is the real problem.

Clearing a code#

Once you have addressed the cause, cut power at the breaker for at least a minute, restore it, close the door, run Cancel/Drain, then start a fresh cycle. If the same code comes back in the first few minutes, the underlying fault is still there and needs more diagnosis.

Repair or Replace#

Cleaning a filter, reseating a sensor plug, or re-latching a door costs nothing. A thermistor, a fill valve, or a float switch is a moderate part. The control board — behind the F1-E1 memory fault and a stuck F9-E0 diverter — is the expensive item, and on an older dishwasher a failed board is where repair and replacement get weighed. If a power cycle and the obvious checks do not clear the code, you can book a visit to have the exact fault read and repaired in one trip.

FAQ#

The questions we hear most about Maytag dishwasher error codes are below.