Maytag Dishwasher Error Codes — Complete F-E Code Reference

Maytag dishwashers use the Whirlpool Corporation F-E (Function-Error) diagnostic code system. When the control board detects a component failure or operating condition outside normal parameters, it displays a two-part code: the F number identifies which system has failed, and the E number specifies the exact fault within that system. Understanding these codes gives you a precise diagnosis before a single tool is picked up.

The MDB-series dishwashers display codes on the LED panel (blinking sequences on basic models or alphanumeric readout on premium models with digital displays). On models without a digital display, the error is communicated through a pattern of blinking lights — the specific pattern corresponds to the F and E numbers. The tech sheet (located inside the door frame or behind the kick panel on all MDB models) provides the blink-code legend for your specific model.

How to Read Maytag Error Codes

Digital display models: The code appears directly as "F#E#" (e.g., F5-E1).

LED blink models: After a fault occurs, the Status/Clean light blinks in a counted sequence. For example, 5 blinks, pause, 1 blink = F5-E1. Count carefully — some codes differ by a single blink.

To retrieve stored codes (after the display has cleared): Enter diagnostic mode by pressing three buttons in sequence (any three, in order) within 3 seconds with the door closed. The last stored error code will display or blink.

Complete Error Code Guide for Maytag MDB Dishwashers

F1-E1 — Control Board EEPROM Error

What failed: The onboard memory chip (EEPROM) on the main control board cannot be read by the processor. This stores cycle programs and calibration data.

Common cause: Power surge corrupted the EEPROM data, or the chip itself has failed from age/heat exposure.

Immediate action: Disconnect power for 5 minutes, then reconnect. If the code clears and the dishwasher operates normally, the EEPROM had a soft error (data corruption from a momentary power event). If the code returns immediately upon starting a cycle, the board requires replacement.

Parts Cost: $120–$295 (control board, model-specific) Professional Repair Cost: $225–$475

Repair procedure: Replace the main electronic control board. See the control board replacement steps in the "Won't Start" guide. After installation, run Cancel/Drain followed by a Normal cycle to allow the new board to initialize its memory.

F1-E2 — Motor Control Communication Error

What failed: The main board cannot communicate with the motor control module. On some MDB models, the motor controller is a separate board from the main UI board.

Common cause: Wiring harness connection loose between the two boards, or one board has failed.

Immediate action: Disconnect power. Open the door panel or access behind the kick panel. Reseat all ribbon cable and wire harness connectors between the main board and any secondary control board. Power on and test.

Parts Cost: $95–$280 (affected board) Professional Repair Cost: $195–$425

F2-E1 — User Interface (Keypad) Error

What failed: The touchpad/button assembly is sending incorrect or stuck signals to the control board. Buttons appear to press themselves or don't respond.

Common cause: Moisture intrusion behind the touchpad membrane (common on dishwashers near sinks with frequent splashing), or the membrane ribbon cable has degraded.

Immediate action: Disconnect power for 5 minutes. If the code clears, a temporary moisture event caused the false signal. If it persists, the touchpad assembly needs replacement.

Parts Cost: $65–$150 (touchpad/membrane assembly) Professional Repair Cost: $145–$275

Repair procedure: On MDB models with a separate touchpad assembly (not integrated into the board): remove the inner door panel screws, carefully separate the outer door panel from the inner panel. The touchpad membrane adheres to the outer panel interior. Peel the old membrane off, clean the surface of adhesive residue, and apply the replacement membrane. Reconnect the ribbon cable to the control board.

F3-E0 — Oven/Wash Temperature Sensor Open (Thermistor)

What failed: The water temperature sensor (thermistor) that monitors wash water temperature has an open circuit — the control board cannot read the current water temperature.

Common cause: The thermistor wire is disconnected, the sensor itself has failed (open circuit), or the connector at the control board end is corroded.

Immediate action: This code prevents the dishwasher from running heated cycles. Disconnect power, access the thermistor (located in the sump area at the tub base), and check the wire connection. A disconnected plug is the most common cause.

Parts Cost: $15–$40 (thermistor sensor) Professional Repair Cost: $95–$175

Repair procedure:

1. Disconnect power. Remove the kick panel.
2. Locate the thermistor — a small probe inserted into the sump housing, connected by a two-wire plug.
3. Check the plug connection at both ends (sensor and board). Reseat if loose.
4. Test the sensor with a multimeter set to resistance: at room temperature, a functional thermistor reads approximately 50,000 ohms (50K). Infinite resistance = open circuit (replace sensor). Near-zero = shorted (replace sensor).
5. If the sensor tests good but the code persists, the wiring between sensor and board has a break. Trace and repair.

F3-E1 — Temperature Sensor Shorted

What failed: Same thermistor as F3-E0, but reading a short circuit (zero resistance) rather than open.

Repair: Same procedure as F3-E0 — test sensor resistance and replace if shorted.

F5-E1 — Door Switch/Latch Fault

What failed: The control board has detected that the door switch signal is inconsistent — either the switch indicates "open" while the latch is physically engaged, or the signal is bouncing (intermittent connection).

Common cause: Worn door switch contacts, latch mechanism not fully engaging the switch actuator, or corroded switch wiring connector.

Immediate action: Open and firmly re-close the door, ensuring the latch clicks fully. If the code clears, the latch wasn't fully engaging. If it persists, the switch or latch requires service.

Parts Cost: $35–$75 (latch assembly with integrated switch) Professional Repair Cost: $115–$200

F5-E2 — Door Will Not Lock

What failed: On models with a motorized door lock (typically commercial-style or some premium MDB models), the lock motor cannot achieve the locked position within the expected timeframe.

Common cause: Lock motor failure, obstruction in the lock mechanism, or wiring to the lock motor disconnected.

Parts Cost: $40–$90 (lock assembly) Professional Repair Cost: $125–$225

F6-E1 — Water Supply Issue (No Fill Detected)

What failed: The control board opened the inlet valve but the water level sensor or flow meter did not detect water entering the tub within the expected timeframe (typically 90 seconds).

Common cause: Water supply valve beneath the sink is closed, supply hose kinked, inlet valve failed (solenoid doesn't open), or float switch stuck in the up position (falsely telling the board the tub is already full).

Immediate action: Verify the water supply valve is open. Check for kinks in the supply hose. Run a diagnostic fill test to confirm whether the valve opens (you should hear the solenoid click and water flowing).

Parts Cost: $30–$65 (inlet valve) or $10–$30 (float switch) Professional Repair Cost: $110–$200

F7-E1 — Flow Meter/Turbidity Sensor Error

What failed: The water flow sensor or turbidity sensor (measures water clarity to determine soil level) is sending out-of-range signals.

Common cause: Sensor connector loose, sensor fouled with debris/scale, or sensor failed electrically.

Parts Cost: $25–$60 (sensor) Professional Repair Cost: $110–$185

Repair procedure: Locate the turbidity sensor at the sump base (inside the tub, accessible after removing the lower filter assembly). Disconnect the wire connector, clean the sensor face of any film or deposits, reconnect, and clear the error. If it returns, replace the sensor.

F8-E1 — Slow Drain Detected

What failed: After the drain pump activated, water level did not drop to the expected level within the timeout period. The tub is draining, but too slowly.

Common cause: Partial clog in the drain hose, partially blocked check valve, clogged Dual Power Filtration system restricting flow to the pump, or weakening drain pump.

Immediate action: Clean the filter assembly thoroughly (both cylindrical and flat mesh). Check the drain hose for partial obstruction. Verify the garbage disposal knockout is clear.

Parts Cost: $0 (filter cleaning) to $45–$85 (drain pump if failing) Professional Repair Cost: $89–$250

F8-E4 — Overfill Condition

What failed: Water level has risen above the acceptable maximum — the float switch has triggered an emergency drain.

Common cause: Inlet valve stuck open (not closing when the board signals), float switch failed in the down position (not detecting rising water), or drain during fill is pulling water back in from the disposal.

Parts Cost: $30–$65 (inlet valve) or $10–$30 (float switch) Professional Repair Cost: $110–$200

F9-E0 — Diverter/Wash Motor Position Error

What failed: The diverter motor (directs water between upper and lower spray arms on models with alternating wash) cannot achieve its target position, or the wash motor is not reaching expected RPM.

Common cause: Diverter motor failure, obstruction in the diverter mechanism, or wash motor struggling (connects to chopper jam or motor bearing issues on Maytag models).

Parts Cost: $45–$120 (diverter motor or wash motor depending on source) Professional Repair Cost: $140–$300

How to Clear Error Codes

After resolving the underlying issue:

1. Disconnect power at the breaker for 60 seconds minimum.
2. Reconnect power and close the door.
3. Press Cancel/Drain and wait for the drain cycle to complete.
4. Start a new wash cycle. If the code does not return, the repair is confirmed.

If the same code returns within the first few minutes of the new cycle, the underlying fault was not resolved — further diagnosis is needed.

Diagnostic Mode Deep Dive

The full diagnostic sequence on MDB models tests each system individually:

• Step 1: All indicators on (confirms board and display function)
• Step 2: Water fill test (inlet valve + float switch)
• Step 3: Wash motor activation (circulation + chopper)
• Step 4: Drain pump test
• Step 5: Heating element test (measures temperature rise)
• Step 6: Dry cycle (heating element + optional fan)
• Step 7: Door latch test (on motorized-lock models)

Press Start to advance between steps. Press Cancel at any point to exit diagnostic mode.

FAQ

Q: My Maytag dishwasher is flashing but I cannot read the code. How do I identify it?

Count the blink sequences carefully: the light blinks a number of times, pauses for 2 seconds, blinks again, pauses for 5 seconds, then repeats the entire pattern. The first group of blinks is the F number, the second is the E number. Video-record the blinking with your phone in slow motion if it's hard to count in real-time.

Q: The error code cleared after I unplugged the dishwasher. Should I still repair it?

If the code was F1-E1 (EEPROM) or F2-E1 (keypad), a soft reset may permanently resolve the issue if it was caused by a momentary power surge or moisture event. Monitor for 5-10 cycles. If it recurs, the component needs replacement. For F5-E1 (door), F8-E1 (drain), or F3-E0 (sensor) codes, the underlying cause still exists — the code will return.

Q: Can I run my dishwasher with an error code showing?

Some codes allow limited operation (the dishwasher may attempt to run but with reduced function). Codes F5-E1 (door) and F8-E4 (overfill) prevent any operation as safety measures. For other codes, the dishwasher may run but not optimally — which risks further damage to the affected system.

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Error code on your Maytag dishwasher that you cannot resolve? Our technicians have diagnostic tools that read MDB-series codes and test individual components. Book a diagnostic appointment →