The short answer
Read F3T3 as a statement about a circuit rather than about heat. The control converts a resistance into a temperature, so the hood temperature thermistor or its wiring failing anywhere along its length produces the same display. One power-cycle is worth doing, but a code that returns on the next cycle is a wiring or sensor replacement rather than a glitch.
This code and its neighbours on this appliance
Reference| Code | Meaning |
|---|---|
| F3T3 | There may be a problem with the Hood Temperature Thermistor or the associated wiring. |
| F3T4 | There may be a problem with the Magnetron Temperature Thermistor or the associated wiring. |
| F3T2 | There may be a problem with the Convection Thermistor or the associated wiring. |
What you see alongside the code
- The code clears on a reset and returns later — That pattern points at an intermittent connection rather than a sensor that has failed outright.
- Food cooks unevenly or far slower than the setting suggests — A sensor reading high makes the control cut heat early, so everything comes out underdone.
- NEAR MISS - the oven heats correctly and the code never returns — A single appearance after a power interruption is often just that.
What triggers it, most likely first
- A failed or drifted sensor element — The sensor is a resistance element, and when it drifts the control sees a value it will not accept.
- A loose or corroded connector at the sensor tail — The connector sits in the hottest, most thermally cycled part of the cabinet.
- A chafed or pinched harness between the sensor and the board — The run passes behind the rear panel where a replaced part can trap it.
Check in this order, and why
- Reset and immediately call for heat — How fast the code returns tells you how hard the fault is, and that steers everything after it.
- Rule out a recent repair or a recent deep clean — Both are common precursors, and both point at a trapped harness or a wet connector rather than a failed element.
- Open the rear panel and check the sensor terminals — Cheap to check, and it is where this fault most often lives.
The owner-safe procedure
- Record exactly when the code appears — At idle, at preheat, or partway through a bake.
About 10 min
- Cut power at the breaker for several minutes — A clean reset is the only owner action that clears a transient read error.
About 6 min
- Check the cavity light and fan still work after the reset — It confirms the board is alive and narrows the fault to the sensor path.
About 3 min
Before you open anything
Safety
Switch the breaker off before any panel comes off - a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. On a built-in oven the supply is often behind the unit rather than on a plug, so confirm the circuit is dead at the terminal block and not just at a switch. Do not defeat the door interlock to reach the sensor boss from inside the cavity.
When this is a service call
This becomes a service call the moment the check needs a meter. A sensor that measures correctly while the code stands moves the fault to the board input, and that is a diagnosis rather than a guess - replacing the sensor on spec is the most common wasted part on this fault. Call straight away if the oven has tripped its breaker.
Neighbouring codes on this appliance
What this page does not cover
This page is generalized information about the code rather than about one appliance. It is written for F3T3 as the KitchenAid oven code list documents it across the brand rather than for one family or model line. Where a family- or model-specific page exists for your unit it is the more specific answer and is linked from the code index for this appliance. The codes listed beside it in the table above are documented differently, so read the characters on your display carefully rather than working from a code that merely looks similar.
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