KitchenAid Dishwasher Error Codes — Complete F-Code Reference

KitchenAid dishwashers use the same F#E# error code format as all Whirlpool Corporation platform dishwashers. The first number after F identifies the system (F1 = electronics, F2 = user interface, F5 = door, F6 = communication, F7 = motor, F8 = water/heat, F9 = drain), and the number after E identifies the specific fault within that system. Understanding this structure lets you quickly narrow down the problem area before opening any panels.

Because KitchenAid shares the Whirlpool control platform, the diagnostic mode entry sequences and stored error code retrieval procedures are identical to equivalent Whirlpool models. The tech sheet — found behind the toe plate or taped inside the console — provides the exact button sequence for your specific model.

How to Read KitchenAid Error Codes

On KDTM (top-control) models, error codes display as the Clean light blinking in patterns or as alphanumeric codes on the hidden display at the door's top edge. On KDTE models with visible front panels, codes appear directly on the LCD or LED display.

Blink code interpretation: If your model uses blinking lights instead of an alphanumeric display, count the number of blinks between pauses. For example, 7 blinks = F5E1 (door switch issue). Your tech sheet maps blink counts to specific F#E# codes.

How to Enter Diagnostic Mode

1. Locate the tech sheet: pull off the toe plate (two 1/4" hex screws) and look for a folded sheet taped to the underside of the tub or inside the toe plate. Alternatively, check inside the control console (requires door panel removal).
2. The sheet lists the exact button sequence. Common sequences for KDTM models: press a specific three-button combination (like Hi Temp + Heated Dry + Hi Temp + Heated Dry) within a 4-second window.
3. Once in diagnostic mode, the control will step through tests automatically or allow you to advance manually (press the cycle select button to advance to next test).
4. Stored error codes are typically displayed first upon entering diagnostics.

Common KitchenAid Dishwasher Error Codes

F1E0 — EEPROM Communication Error

What it means: The control board's onboard memory (EEPROM) cannot be read or written. This is a main board communication failure.

Cause: Power surge damage, failed EEPROM chip, or corrupted firmware. Common after lightning strikes or breaker trips during active cycles.

Fix: Try a hard reset (breaker off for 10 minutes). If code returns, replace the main control board (W11413276 on KDTM604K models). The EEPROM stores model configuration data — it cannot be repaired, only replaced as part of the board.

Parts cost: $150–$280 | Professional repair: $250–$450

F1E1 — Control Board Hardware Fault

What it means: The control board has detected an internal hardware failure in its own circuitry.

Cause: Component failure on the PCB — usually a failed capacitor, damaged trace, or relay burnout.

Fix: Replace main control board. No user-serviceable repair exists for board-level component failures.

F2E1 — Stuck Key / User Interface Error

What it means: The control board detects that a button on the user interface panel appears permanently pressed.

Cause: Water intrusion into the UI panel (steam damage), failed membrane switch, or a UI board component failure. On some models this code appears during a board communication breakdown rather than an actual stuck button.

Fix: Clean the control panel surface. If code persists after reset, inspect the UI board for moisture damage. Replace the UI board if corroded or damaged.

Parts cost: $80–$180 | Professional repair: $180–$320

F5E1 — Door Switch Error

What it means: The control does not detect the door closed signal from the latch microswitch.

Cause: Failed door latch assembly (W10862259), worn latch arm not fully engaging, or wiring issue between latch and control board.

Fix: Test the door switch with multimeter (should show continuity when latch is engaged). Replace latch assembly if switch does not change state properly.

Parts cost: $15–$35 | Professional repair: $100–$170

F5E2 — Door Not Locking

What it means: The door lock mechanism did not engage within the expected time after cycle start command.

Cause: Similar to F5E1 — latch mechanism failure or misalignment. May also indicate a slow-acting latch motor on models with powered door locks.

Fix: Check latch alignment, replace if worn. Ensure no obstruction prevents full door closure.

F6E1 — Communication Error Between Boards

What it means: The main control board and user interface board cannot communicate with each other over the internal data bus.

Cause: Damaged ribbon cable between boards (especially at the door hinge flex point), corroded connector pins, or board-level failure on either end.

Fix: Inspect the ribbon cable/harness routing through the door hinge. Replace if damaged. If cable is good, the failure is in one of the two boards — try replacing the UI board first (less expensive).

Parts cost: $20–$180 | Professional repair: $120–$320

F7E1 — Wash Motor Not Running

What it means: The control commanded the circulation pump motor to run but did not detect rotation within the expected time.

Cause: Seized circulation pump (debris in impeller), failed motor winding, broken motor wiring, or relay failure on the control board.

Fix: Remove the filter assembly and check for debris in the sump that could jam the impeller. If sump is clear and motor wiring tests good, the circulation pump assembly or the motor relay on the main board has failed.

Parts cost: $85–$180 (pump) or $150–$280 (board) | Professional repair: $200–$400

F8E1 — Heater Relay Error

What it means: The control board's heating element relay has failed or the element circuit is open.

Cause: Burned-out heating element (open circuit), failed relay on board, or disconnected element wiring.

Fix: Test the heating element with multimeter (15–30 ohms normal). Test for continuity to ground (should be open — any reading indicates a short). If element tests good, the board relay has failed.

Parts cost: $25–$280 | Professional repair: $130–$450

F8E4 — Drain Pump Error

What it means: The control commanded the drain pump but did not detect proper operation.

Cause: Failed drain pump motor (WPW10348269), disconnected pump wiring, or clogged pump impeller that prevents rotation.

Fix: Check drain pump wiring at connector. If wiring is good, test pump directly or replace. Inspect for debris jamming impeller.

Parts cost: $45–$75 | Professional repair: $150–$250

F8E6 — Water Not Heating

What it means: Water temperature did not reach the target within the maximum allowed time.

Cause: Failed heating element, malfunctioning thermistor (part of turbidity sensor on most KitchenAid models), or low incoming water temperature combined with a marginal element.

Fix: Test element and thermistor. Also check that your hot water heater supplies at least 120F to the dishwasher inlet — the dishwasher heater is designed to boost temperature, not heat cold water from scratch.

F9E1 — Drain Time Exceeded

What it means: Water level did not drop sufficiently within the maximum drain time (typically 8 minutes).

Cause: Clogged filter, blocked drain hose, failed drain pump, or missing high-loop in drain hose routing allowing backflow.

Fix: Clean the dual-stage filter assembly, check drain hose for kinks and high-loop, verify disposal knockout removed, and test drain pump operation.

Parts cost: $0–$75 | Professional repair: $89–$250

How to Clear Error Codes

1. Hard reset: Disconnect power at breaker for 5–10 minutes. This clears active error codes from the display. However, the control board stores error history in EEPROM memory that persists through resets.
2. Diagnostic mode clear: Enter diagnostic mode and advance past the stored codes display — some models allow clearing stored history by pressing a specific button sequence during diagnostics (documented on the tech sheet).
3. Fix the root cause first. Clearing a code without fixing the problem means the code will return on the next cycle.

KitchenAid-Specific Diagnostic Notes

• ProWash cycles can generate what appear to be error states if the turbidity sensor is malfunctioning — the control may extend the cycle past maximum time and then display a timeout code. This is not a true hardware failure but indicates a sensor cleaning or replacement is needed.
• Clean Water Wash system: On models with this continuous filtration feature, a heavily clogged filter can trigger F9E1 (drain) codes because the filtration flow path and drain path share the sump. Clean the filter first before assuming a pump failure.
• 39 dBA models: These ultra-quiet KDTM models have additional sound insulation that makes it harder to hear motor or pump issues during operation. If you suspect a motor problem (F7E1), remove the toe plate during a test cycle to listen for sounds from below.

Prevention

• Run a diagnostic mode test annually to check stored error codes — catching issues early prevents mid-cycle failures.
• Protect the dishwasher circuit with a surge protector to prevent F1E0 and F1E1 (board damage) codes.
• Clean the filter assembly every 2–4 weeks to prevent F9E1 drain codes and F7E1 motor overload codes.

---

Need help with a KitchenAid error code? Our technicians arrive with diagnostic equipment and carry boards, pumps, and latch assemblies for same-visit repair. Schedule a diagnostic →