The short answer
F37 points at a temperature sensor on an induction coil. Each coil carries a sensor so the control can protect it, and when one reads outside its expected range the control takes that zone away rather than running it blind. Other zones are usually unaffected, which is itself a useful clue. The useful work here is narrowing, not fixing: most of it costs nothing and all of it shortens the visit if one is needed.
Error codes
Reference| Code | Meaning |
|---|---|
| F37 | There may be a problem with a temperature sensor on an induction coil. |
What you observe, and what to record
- One zone is unavailable while the others work — Sensors are per-coil, so faults are per-zone.
- Whether the code followed any recent work — An installation, a service visit, plumbing or electrical work: anything done near the appliance in the weeks before is worth mentioning.
- Whether the code clears when power is removed — Cut the supply for a minute and watch. A code that clears and stays away behaves completely differently from one that returns within a cycle, and nobody but you can observe the difference.
Causes, most likely first on this cooktop
- A connector on the sensor lead that has relaxed — First, because an open circuit reads as an impossible temperature and this is the cheapest way to get one. The leads are fine and the space under the glass moves with every heating cycle.
- The sensor itself has drifted or failed — Second: it sits against a coil that gets hot every use, which is a demanding life for a small thermistor.
- Heat damage to the lead — Third: the loom shares a tight, hot space and insulation is what suffers there.
Check in this order, and why
- Establish which zone is affected — Sensors are per-coil, so naming the zone is most of the diagnosis.
- Note whether it fails cold or only once warm — Cold is a broken connection; warm is drift. The two are different repairs.
- Check whether the underside is ventilated — A starved cooling path makes a good sensor read high.
What an owner can safely check
- Test every zone in turn with the same pan — Identical conditions are what make the comparison mean anything.
Tools: pan of waterAbout 20 min
- Note which functions still work and which do not — Go through them deliberately rather than from memory. The list of what works is the fastest diagnostic information there is.
About 15 min
- Find the manual, or download it for your model number — Model-line documentation frequently says something the general code index does not.
About 10 min
- STOP HERE — the sensor sits against the coil — It is reached from underneath, on the live side.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. A cooktop is reached from below through the cabinet, never by prying the glass up: it is bonded to its frame and a lifted corner is a cracked top. Surface areas stay hot long after the display clears.
When to call a technician
Call once one zone reliably fails while the others work and the space beneath is clear. The sensor is a modest part and the labour is reaching it. Tell the technician whether the zone fails cold or after warming — that one detail often decides whether a lead or a sensor is carried to the job. If the fault is intermittent, say so at the outset: it changes what a technician brings and whether one visit is realistic.
Nearest Jenn-Air cooktop codes
What this page does not cover
This page reads F37 for Jenn-Air cooktops in general, from the manufacturer's shared code index. A code can be documented differently for one family, so where a model-line page exists for your unit it is the more specific answer and is linked below. Not here: wiring colours, connector positions and part numbers, which differ by family.
Links: - [Jenn Air Cooktop Error Codes](/blog/jenn-air-cooktop-error-codes)
Where to go next
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