Replace Whirlpool Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve

The inlet valve is a solenoid that opens when the control board sends 120V during the fill phase, so it fails as no fill (F6E1) or as continuous filling. A burned coil, a stuck plunger, or a clogged inlet screen are the usual causes. Before ordering, confirm the supply valve under the sink is open and the line is not kinked, since those mimic a bad valve.

Before you start#

Safety warning: Disconnect power at the circuit breaker AND turn off the water supply valve under the sink. There will be residual water in the supply line — have towels ready.

Step-by-step#

1 - Confirm the valve is at fault. An F6E1 points at the fill function, so first verify the sink supply valve is open and the line is not kinked. Listen at the fill start: no click means no signal or a dead solenoid, while a click with no water means a stuck plunger or clogged screen.

2 - Kill power and water. Switch off the dishwasher breaker, close the hot-water supply valve under the sink, and open a nearby hot faucet to bleed line pressure.

3 - Drop the kick plate. Remove the two 1/4" hex screws at the ends of the kick plate and let it fall forward. The inlet valve is at the bottom-left, with the braided supply line on one end and a rubber fill hose running up to the tub on the other.

4 - Disconnect the supply line. Loosen the compression nut at the braided line with the wrench, catch the drain with a towel, and set the line aside in a pan.

5 - Test the solenoid. Press the locking tab and pull the 2-pin connector off the valve. With the meter on ohms across the two terminals, a good solenoid reads 500-1500 ohms; an open reading confirms a burned coil.

6 - Free the fill hose and valve. Squeeze the spring clamp on the outlet with pliers, slide it back, and pull the fill hose off the top nipple. Remove the single mounting screw (Torx T20 or Phillips) and slide the valve out, noting that the inlet faces the supply line and the outlet faces up.

7 - Check the inlet screen. Inspect the old valve's inlet screen; a clog there may have caused the failure. The new valve ships with a fresh screen, so if your supply water is dirty, consider an inline filter to protect it.

8 - Install the new valve (W10872255). Set it in the same orientation, snug the mounting screw, push the fill hose onto the outlet and slide the clamp over it, click the electrical connector home, then thread the braided line to the inlet hand-tight plus a quarter turn. Do not use thread tape on the compression fitting.

9 - Water on, leak check first. Open the supply valve slowly and watch the connections for 60 seconds, tightening an eighth of a turn at a time if anything drips. Leave the power off so you confirm no leaks under pressure before energizing.

10 - Power on and test. Refit the kick plate, restore the breaker, and run a short cycle. Listen for the valve click, the rush of water, and a stop after a couple of minutes with no F6E1. If F6E4 appears instead, check the fill hose for a kink and verify supply pressure.

When to call a professional#

EasyBear technicians serving Sacramento and the Bay Area carry Whirlpool-specific diagnostic tools and replacement parts on every service call.

• The sink shut-off valve is seized and cannot stop the water.
• F6E1 returns with a new valve, pointing at the board's fill signal.
• The dishwasher-side supply fitting is corroded or stripped.

Need professional help?#

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