How to Replace the Drain Solenoid Valve on a Samsung Dishwasher
Some Samsung dishwasher models (particularly those with the check valve system) use a drain solenoid valve in addition to the drain pump motor. This solenoid controls a flapper or ball valve in the drain path that opens during the drain phase and closes during wash/fill phases to prevent backflow from the kitchen drain. When the solenoid fails, the dishwasher either cannot drain (error code 3E) because the valve is stuck closed, or drains continuously because the valve is stuck open. This component is separate from the main drain pump (DD31-00005A) and should not be confused with it.
Not all Samsung dishwashers have a drain solenoid. Many models rely on the drain pump alone (the pump creates enough backpressure when off to prevent siphoning). Check your model's parts diagram to confirm whether your unit has this component before ordering.
Before You Start
- Tools needed: Phillips #2 screwdriver, needle-nose pliers, multimeter, flashlight, towels
- Parts needed: Samsung drain solenoid valve (~$20-$50, model-specific)
- Time required: 25-35 minutes
- Difficulty: Intermediate
- Safety warning: Disconnect power at the circuit breaker and close the water supply valve. The solenoid operates on 120V AC from the control board. Residual water will drain from hoses during disconnection.
Do You Have the Right Tools?
Water pressure gauge ($60), spray arm tester, float switch multimeter ($85), and drain inspection camera. Our technician arrives with $15K+ in professional tools — your diagnostic is free.
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How to Confirm the Drain Solenoid Has Failed
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Error code 3E with working pump: If you hear the drain pump running (humming sound from below the unit) but water is not draining, the solenoid valve may be stuck closed, blocking the drain path even though the pump is operational.
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Water siphons back into tub: If you find water in the bottom of the tub hours after a completed cycle (tub was empty when cycle ended), the solenoid valve or check mechanism has failed open, allowing kitchen sink water to backflow through the drain hose into the dishwasher.
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Continuous drain sound: The pump runs continuously trying to drain, but water level does not decrease. This can indicate the solenoid is partially open, creating a recirculation loop where water drains and refills simultaneously.
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Electrical test: Disconnect power. Access the solenoid (behind the kick plate, mounted inline on the drain hose system). Disconnect the solenoid's two-wire connector. Set multimeter to ohms. A working solenoid coil reads 500-1500 ohms. Open (OL) means the coil has burned out. Very low resistance (under 50 ohms) indicates a shorted coil.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Disconnect Power and Water
Turn off the circuit breaker. Close the water supply valve. Place towels beneath the dishwasher to catch residual water.
Step 2: Remove the Kick Plate
Remove the two Phillips #2 screws and release the two plastic squeeze clips. Pull the panel forward. Samsung kick plates use the same Phillips screw + squeeze clip arrangement across most DW80 models.
Step 3: Locate the Drain Solenoid Valve
With the kick plate removed, trace the drain hose from the sump area. On models with a drain solenoid, you will find it inline between the drain pump outlet and the point where the drain hose exits the cabinet. The solenoid is a small cylindrical or rectangular component with a coil body and two hose connections (inlet from pump, outlet to drain hose). It also has a two-wire electrical connector.
If you trace the entire drain path and find no solenoid (just a continuous hose from pump to sink drain), your model does not have this component and the issue is likely the pump itself or a check valve integrated into the pump.
Step 4: Disconnect the Electrical Connector
Locate the two-wire connector on the solenoid coil. Press the locking tab and pull straight out. Photograph the orientation for reassembly reference.
Step 5: Disconnect the Inlet Hose
The inlet side connects to the drain pump outlet (or to an intermediate hose from the pump). Using needle-nose pliers, squeeze the spring clamp and slide it back. Wiggle the hose off the solenoid inlet nipple. Have a pan ready to catch approximately one cup of water.
Step 6: Disconnect the Outlet Hose
Repeat for the outlet side. Squeeze the spring clamp, slide it back, and remove the hose from the outlet nipple. Note which nipple is inlet versus outlet. On Samsung drain solenoids, the flow direction is usually marked with an arrow on the body. Installing it backward will prevent proper operation.
Step 7: Remove the Solenoid from Its Mount
The solenoid may be held by a mounting bracket (one Phillips screw) or by a clip on the dishwasher frame. Remove the screw or release the clip and extract the solenoid.
Step 8: Inspect the Old Solenoid
Look inside both ports of the old solenoid. You may see debris, scale buildup, or a stuck plunger. If the valve mechanism is simply stuck with debris rather than electrically failed (coil tests good but valve does not open), cleaning and reinstalling may resolve the issue without needing a new part. Flush with hot water and verify the plunger moves freely when pushed with a screwdriver.
Step 9: Install the New Solenoid Valve
Mount the new solenoid in the same position and orientation as the old one. Ensure the flow direction arrow points from the pump outlet toward the external drain. Secure with the mounting screw or clip.
Step 10: Reconnect the Hoses
Slide each hose onto its respective nipple (inlet from pump, outlet to drain). Push each hose on until it seats fully (half inch of nipple inside hose). Slide the spring clamps back over each connection.
Step 11: Reconnect the Electrical Connector
Plug the two-wire connector into the new solenoid until the locking tab clicks. Ensure the wires are routed away from the drain pump and any heat sources.
Step 12: Test for Leaks and Function
Restore power and water supply. Run a rinse cycle. During the drain phase, listen for the solenoid clicking open (a quiet click just before the pump activates). Watch the hose connections for leaks during draining. Verify the tub empties completely and water does not return after the cycle ends.
Step 13: Reinstall the Kick Plate
Once confirmed working and leak-free, reinstall the kick plate.
Safety First — Know the Risks
Live 120V wiring in a wet environment is one of the most dangerous DIY scenarios. Water + electricity = serious shock risk. Our techs are licensed and insured — let them handle the risk.
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Troubleshooting After Replacement
- Still not draining (3E persists): The drain pump itself may also be failing. Test the pump by listening for the motor sound during drain phase. No sound means pump failure. The solenoid opens the path but does not move water.
- Water returns after cycle: Check the drain hose routing. The hose must loop up to the countertop height (or connect to an air gap) before going down to the disposal. Without this high loop, gravity siphon can pull water back regardless of the solenoid.
- Clicking sound but no drain: The solenoid is opening (you hear the click) but something downstream is blocked. Check the drain hose for kinks and the garbage disposal knockout plug.
- Leak at hose connection: Reposition the spring clamp. Ensure it sits squarely over the connection, not offset.
When to Call a Professional
- Both the drain pump and solenoid have failed simultaneously (suggests electrical issue from the control board)
- The drain hose routing is incorrect and requires modification of the under-sink plumbing
- Persistent backflow despite new solenoid and proper hose routing (may need an air gap installation)
- You cannot identify whether your model has a drain solenoid or an integrated check valve
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The Real Cost of DIY
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Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional
| DIY | Professional | |
|---|---|---|
| Parts | $20-$50 | $20-$50 |
| Labor | $0 | $120-$200 |
| Time | 30 min | 20 min |
| Risk | Low | Warranty included |
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FAQ
Q: What is the difference between the drain pump and the drain solenoid on a Samsung dishwasher? A: The drain pump (DD31-00005A) is the motor that physically moves water out of the tub. The drain solenoid is a valve that opens and closes the drain path. The pump provides the force; the solenoid controls when that path is available. Not all Samsung models have a separate solenoid.
Q: How do I know if my Samsung dishwasher has a drain solenoid valve? A: Check your model's parts diagram on Samsung's support website or search by model number on a parts supplier like RepairClinic. If your model lists a drain solenoid or check valve as a separate component from the drain pump, it has one. Physically, look for a small component inline on the drain hose between the pump and the cabinet exit.
Q: Can a stuck drain solenoid damage the drain pump? A: Yes. If the solenoid is stuck closed, the pump runs against a blocked path, which overheats the pump motor. Extended operation against a closed valve can burn out the pump. This is why persistent 3E errors should be diagnosed quickly rather than repeatedly running cycles.
Q: Why does my Samsung dishwasher drain when it should be filling? A: A solenoid stuck in the open position allows water to drain as fast as it fills. You may hear the fill valve running continuously because the tub never reaches the required water level. The control board eventually times out with a 1E (fill timeout) error even though the real problem is the stuck-open drain solenoid.
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