How to Replace a Samsung Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve (DD62-00084A)
The water inlet valve controls water flow into your Samsung dishwasher. When it fails, the dishwasher either will not fill at all (displaying error code 1E), fills too slowly causing extended cycle times, or leaks water into the tub when the machine is off. The Samsung inlet valve part number DD62-00084A fits most DW80 series models. This solenoid-operated valve is located behind the lower-left access panel and is one of the simpler replacements on a Samsung dishwasher because it requires no tub disassembly.
Before You Start
- Tools needed: Phillips #2 screwdriver, adjustable pliers or small channel-locks, needle-nose pliers, towels, small bucket or pan
- Parts needed: Samsung inlet valve DD62-00084A (~$25-$55)
- Time required: 25-35 minutes
- Difficulty: Intermediate
- Safety warning: Disconnect power at the circuit breaker AND close the water supply valve under the sink. Even with the breaker off, the supply line remains pressurized until the valve is closed. Have towels ready as residual water will drain from the hoses.
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How to Confirm the Inlet Valve Has Failed
Before replacing the valve, verify the problem is not upstream:
- Check the supply valve under the sink. Open it fully counterclockwise. A partially closed valve mimics a failed inlet valve.
- Check the supply hose. Inspect for kinks between the supply valve and the dishwasher connection.
- Check the inlet screen filter. Close the supply valve. Disconnect the supply hose from the dishwasher inlet fitting (have a bucket ready for water). Look inside the inlet fitting for a small mesh screen. Mineral buildup on this screen restricts flow without the valve itself being bad. Clean with vinegar and a toothbrush.
- Electrical test. Disconnect power. Access the valve and disconnect its two-wire connector. Set a multimeter to ohms and measure across the valve terminals. A reading between 500-1500 ohms means the coil is intact. An open reading (OL/infinity) confirms the solenoid coil has burned out.
- Mechanical failure test. If the valve leaks water into the tub when the dishwasher is off (you find a pool of water after hours of inactivity), the valve's internal diaphragm has worn and cannot seal completely. Replace the valve.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Disconnect Power and Water Supply
Turn off the circuit breaker for the dishwasher. Close the hot water supply valve under the kitchen sink by turning it clockwise. Place towels on the floor under the dishwasher. There is residual water in both the supply hose and the internal fill hose that will drain during disconnection.
Step 2: Remove the Lower Kick Plate
Remove the two Phillips #2 screws on either side of the kick plate. Release the two plastic squeeze clips at the top edge by pressing the panel top slightly inward while pulling the bottom forward. Set the panel aside.
Step 3: Locate the Inlet Valve
The inlet valve is at the lower-left of the dishwasher (when facing the front). It is a compact solenoid assembly approximately 3 inches tall with a brass inlet fitting on one side (where the supply hose connects from outside), a plastic outlet hose on the other side (going up into the tub), and a two-wire electrical connector on top. The valve is mounted to a bracket with one or two Phillips screws.
Step 4: Disconnect the Water Supply Hose
Using adjustable pliers, loosen the supply hose nut where it connects to the brass inlet fitting on the valve. Turn counterclockwise. Once loose, unthread by hand. Residual water (approximately half a cup) will drain from the hose. Set the hose end in your bucket. Inspect the hose washer inside the nut for cracking or compression damage. Replace it if worn (standard 3/4" hose washer available at any hardware store).
Step 5: Disconnect the Internal Fill Hose
The outlet side of the valve connects to a smaller rubber hose (typically 5/8" diameter) that carries water up into the tub. This hose is held with a spring clamp. Using needle-nose pliers, squeeze the spring clamp ears together and slide the clamp back along the hose about two inches. Wiggle the hose off the valve outlet nipple. More residual water will drain.
Step 6: Disconnect the Electrical Connector
Locate the two-wire connector on top of the valve. Press the locking tab and pull straight out. The connector is keyed so it can only go back one way. If the wires have an additional ground wire secured under the mounting bracket screw, note its position.
Step 7: Remove the Mounting Bracket Screws
The valve is secured to the dishwasher frame with one or two Phillips screws through a metal mounting bracket. Remove the screws and pull the valve assembly out. On some Samsung models, the valve slides into a slotted bracket without screws and is held by friction. In that case, simply pull the valve toward you to release it from the slot.
Step 8: Transfer the Inlet Screen (If Reusable)
Look inside the brass inlet fitting of the old valve for the mesh filter screen. On some Samsung models, this screen is removable and should be transferred to the new valve if the new valve did not include one. Use needle-nose pliers to carefully extract the screen. Clean it with vinegar before installation in the new valve.
Step 9: Install the New Inlet Valve
Position the new DD62-00084A valve into the mounting bracket. Secure with the Phillips screw(s). Ensure the brass inlet fitting faces the direction of the external supply hose and the plastic outlet nipple faces upward toward the tub fill hose.
Step 10: Reconnect the Internal Fill Hose
Push the fill hose onto the new valve's outlet nipple until it seats fully (about half an inch of nipple inside the hose). Slide the spring clamp back over the connection point using needle-nose pliers. The clamp should sit squarely over the hose-to-nipple junction.
Step 11: Reconnect the Water Supply Hose
Thread the supply hose nut onto the brass inlet fitting hand-tight, then snug it one-quarter turn with adjustable pliers. Do not overtighten as the brass fitting can crack. Ensure the hose washer is seated inside the nut before threading.
Step 12: Reconnect the Electrical Connector
Plug the two-wire connector into the new valve. Push until the locking tab clicks. Reattach the ground wire under the mounting screw if applicable.
Step 13: Test for Leaks
Open the supply valve under the sink slowly. Watch the brass fitting connection and the fill hose connection for leaks. The valve should not pass water with the dishwasher powered off (no voltage to the solenoid means the valve stays closed). If water flows into the tub with no power, you have a defective new valve (rare but possible). Once confirmed dry, restore power and run a quick rinse cycle. Verify the tub fills within 2 minutes and no leaks appear.
Step 14: Reinstall the Kick Plate
Engage the top plastic clips first, then push the bottom flush and reinstall the two Phillips screws.
Safety First — Know the Risks
Live 120V wiring in a wet environment is one of the most dangerous DIY scenarios. Water + electricity = serious shock risk. Our techs are licensed and insured — let them handle the risk.
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Troubleshooting After Replacement
- Error 1E persists: The control board may be failing to send the signal to the valve. Verify 120V AC appears at the valve connector during the fill phase (requires careful live testing with a multimeter or professional assistance).
- Slow fill: Check the inlet screen filter in the new valve. Manufacturing debris can partially block a brand-new valve's screen. Also verify full supply valve opening.
- Dripping at brass fitting: Tighten one-eighth turn more or replace the hose washer. Do not use thread tape on swivel nut connections.
- Tub fills when off: If the new valve passes water without power, the valve is defective. Return it for warranty replacement.
When to Call a Professional
- Water supply plumbing is corroded and the supply valve will not close fully
- Error 1E persists after valve replacement (likely control board issue)
- You notice water damage to the floor or subfloor during the repair
- The dishwasher supply connection uses non-standard fittings (some older installations)
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The Real Cost of DIY
Average DIY attempt: $150-400 in tools you may use once, plus the risk of further damage. Our diagnostic visit costs $0 — we find the problem and give you an honest quote.
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Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional
| DIY | Professional | |
|---|---|---|
| Parts | $25-$55 | $25-$55 |
| Labor | $0 | $120-$220 |
| Time | 30 min | 20 min |
| Risk | Low if connections are tight | Warranty included |
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FAQ
Q: Why does my Samsung dishwasher show error 1E intermittently? A: Intermittent 1E codes usually indicate a partially clogged inlet screen filter rather than a completely failed valve. Remove and clean the mesh screen inside the brass inlet fitting. If the screen is clear, the valve solenoid may be weakening and failing to open fully under low voltage conditions. A multimeter test during the fill attempt confirms this.
Q: Can low home water pressure cause error 1E on a Samsung dishwasher? A: Yes. Samsung dishwashers require a minimum of 20 PSI water pressure to fill within the expected time. If your home water pressure is below 20 PSI (common in multi-story buildings during peak usage), the dishwasher times out waiting for adequate fill and displays 1E. This is not a valve failure. Test your kitchen sink pressure with a gauge before replacing parts.
Q: Is the Samsung DD62-00084A valve the same as universal dishwasher inlet valves? A: No. Samsung uses a model-specific valve with proprietary mounting dimensions and connector type. Universal valves available at hardware stores will not fit the Samsung mounting bracket or electrical connector. Always order the Samsung-specific part for your model.
Q: How long do Samsung dishwasher inlet valves last? A: In areas with clean, moderate-pressure water, Samsung inlet valves typically last 8-12 years. Hard water with high mineral content significantly shortens life by depositing scale on the internal diaphragm and solenoid plunger. Annual cleaning of the inlet screen filter helps extend valve life.
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