How to Replace a Samsung Dishwasher Heating Element: Fix Error Code 5E

When your Samsung dishwasher displays error code 5E or the Heavy/Normal indicators flash simultaneously on non-digital models, it means water temperature did not rise during the heating phase. Samsung dishwashers use a flow-through heating element integrated into the sump area at the bottom of the tub, unlike older dishwashers that used an exposed calrod element visible inside the tub. This makes the Samsung heater more efficient but requires accessing it from beneath the unit rather than from inside the tub.

The heating element is essential for sanitizing dishes, activating detergent properly, and drying with condensation drying systems. A failed heater means dishes come out cold, wet, and potentially not fully sanitized.

Before You Start

• Tools needed: Phillips #2 screwdriver, digital multimeter, needle-nose pliers, towels, flashlight
• Parts needed: Samsung dishwasher heating element (~$45-$120, model-specific), rubber gasket/O-ring (usually included with element)
• Time required: 40-55 minutes
• Difficulty: Advanced
• Safety warning: Disconnect power at the circuit breaker. The heating element operates on 120V AC and draws significant current. Verify power is off with a non-contact voltage tester before touching any wiring. Also close the water supply valve as you will be working near water connections.

How to Confirm the Heating Element Has Failed

Before ordering a new element, determine whether the problem is the element itself or the thermistor that monitors temperature:

1. Disconnect power at the breaker. Wait 3 minutes.
2. Access the element terminals. Remove the kick plate (two Phillips screws + two plastic clips). The heating element terminals protrude from the bottom of the sump housing. They are two metal posts with push-on wire connectors.
3. Disconnect the wires from the element terminals. Pull each connector straight off the terminal post.
4. Test with a multimeter set to ohms. Touch one probe to each terminal post. A working Samsung dishwasher heating element reads between 10-15 ohms. An open reading (OL/infinity) means the element has burned out internally and must be replaced. A reading close to 0 ohms indicates a short to ground and also requires replacement.
5. Test for ground fault. Set the multimeter to ohms. Touch one probe to either terminal and the other probe to the metal sump housing. The reading should be OL (open/infinity). Any measurable resistance indicates the element is shorting to ground, which is a fire hazard and requires immediate replacement.

If the element tests good (10-15 ohms, no ground fault), the thermistor is likely the culprit. See the thermistor section below.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Disconnect Power and Water

Turn off the circuit breaker. Close the water supply valve. Place towels on the floor under the dishwasher. Lay additional towels inside the tub under the lower spray arm area, as some water will drain from the sump when the element is removed.

Step 2: Remove the Kick Plate

Remove the two Phillips #2 screws and release the two plastic squeeze clips. Pull the panel forward and set aside. You now have access to the underside of the dishwasher.

Step 3: Disconnect the Heating Element Wires

Locate the two wire terminals protruding from the bottom of the sump housing. They are typically covered with rubber boots for moisture protection. Pull the rubber boots back to expose the push-on connectors. Use needle-nose pliers to pull each connector straight off its terminal post. Note which wire goes to which terminal (photograph for reference, though on most Samsung models the connections are not polarity-sensitive).

Step 4: Remove the Element Mounting Hardware

Samsung heating elements mount to the sump with either a threaded nut assembly or a snap-ring retainer depending on the model:

• Threaded nut type: A large plastic or brass nut secures the element from below the sump. Use adjustable pliers or a basin wrench to loosen the nut counterclockwise. The rubber gasket between the element flange and the sump provides the water seal.
• Snap-ring type: A metal or plastic ring clips around the element body where it passes through the sump. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the ring off, then push the element up and out.

Step 5: Remove the Old Heating Element

Once the mounting hardware is loose, push the element upward into the tub. Reach into the tub from above and remove the element. On Samsung models, the element is a curved or circular shape that wraps around the inside of the sump area. It may take some manipulation to fit it through the opening. Note the exact orientation and position of the rubber gasket for reinstallation.

Step 6: Inspect and Clean the Sump Opening

With the element removed, inspect the sump opening where the element was sealed. Clean any mineral scale, old gasket material, or debris from the sealing surface. A clean surface ensures the new gasket seals properly and prevents leaks. Use a plastic scraper or cloth with vinegar for scale removal. Do not use metal tools on the plastic sump housing.

Step 7: Install the New Heating Element

Position the new rubber gasket (O-ring) on the element or in the sump groove, depending on your model's design. Insert the new element through the sump opening from inside the tub, feeding the terminal posts downward through the hole. Align the element in the same orientation as the original (the curved shape should follow the contour of the sump chamber).

Step 8: Secure the Element from Below

From beneath the unit, reinstall the mounting hardware:

• Threaded nut type: Thread the nut onto the element body and tighten clockwise until snug. The gasket should compress slightly but not over-crush. Over-tightening cracks the plastic sump housing.
• Snap-ring type: Push the retaining ring onto the element body until it clicks into the groove.

Step 9: Reconnect the Electrical Wires

Push each wire connector onto its terminal post until it seats firmly. Tug gently to verify each connection is secure. Replace the rubber moisture boots over the connections. A loose connection here causes arcing that will quickly burn out the new element's terminals.

Step 10: Test for Leaks Before Full Reassembly

Open the water supply valve. Run a quick fill cycle (or pour two cups of water directly into the sump from inside the tub). Watch the element gasket area from below with a flashlight for any seepage. Even a slow drip must be addressed before the element carries current. If leaking, power off, tighten the mounting nut slightly, or reposition the gasket.

Step 11: Test the New Element

Restore power. Run a normal wash cycle. After approximately 10 minutes, carefully open the door and feel the water inside the tub (it should be noticeably hot, around 130-140F). If using SmartThings, monitor the temperature sensor reading during the cycle. The temperature should rise steadily after the fill phase. If the 5E error does not return and water gets hot, the repair is successful.

Step 12: Reinstall the Kick Plate

Once confirmed working and leak-free, reinstall the kick plate with its screws and clips.

Checking the Thermistor (If Element Tests Good)

If the element reads 10-15 ohms but error 5E still appears, test the thermistor:

1. The thermistor is a small sensor probe mounted in the sump area near the heating element.
2. Disconnect its two-wire connector.
3. Measure resistance at room temperature: a working Samsung NTC thermistor reads approximately 50K ohms at 77F (25C). At 150F (65C) it reads approximately 5-8K ohms.
4. If the reading is significantly off (over 100K or under 1K at room temp), replace the thermistor.
5. A thermistor costs $15-$30 and mounts with a single clip or screw in the sump area.

When to Call a Professional

• The element tests as a short to ground (fire hazard requiring professional verification of wiring integrity)
• Water leaks from the sump gasket area after installation and retightening does not resolve it
• The sump housing is cracked (visible when element is removed)
• Error 5E persists after both element and thermistor replacement (control board relay failure)
• You are not comfortable working with high-current electrical connections

Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional

Need Professional Help?

• Dishwasher repair service
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• Dishwasher repair cost guide

FAQ

Q: Why does my Samsung dishwasher show 5E but the water feels slightly warm? A: The element may be partially working (some internal coil sections burned out while others still heat). Or the thermistor is reading incorrectly, causing the board to flag a heating failure even though some heating is occurring. Test both the element resistance (should be 10-15 ohms total) and the thermistor.

Q: Can I see the Samsung dishwasher heating element inside the tub? A: Unlike older dishwashers with visible calrod elements at the bottom of the tub, Samsung uses a concealed flow-through heater inside the sump chamber. You cannot see it from inside the tub without removing the lower spray arm and filter assembly, and even then only the top of the element housing is visible.

Q: Is the Samsung dishwasher heating element the same as a drying heater? A: Samsung dishwashers use condensation drying (not a dedicated drying heater). The wash heating element heats water to high temperature during the final rinse, and residual heat from the dishes and hot stainless tub promotes evaporation. There is no separate drying element to replace.

Q: How long does a Samsung dishwasher heating element last? A: Typically 6-10 years under normal use. Hard water accelerates element failure because mineral scale insulates the element surface, causing it to overheat locally and burn out. Running a monthly vinegar cleaning cycle helps dissolve scale and extend element life.

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