How to Replace a Samsung Dishwasher Drain Pump (DD31-00005A)
The drain pump is the most commonly replaced component in Samsung dishwashers. When it fails, you will typically see error code 3E on the display, find standing water in the bottom of the tub after a cycle, or hear a loud grinding or humming noise during the drain phase. The Samsung drain pump part number DD31-00005A fits most DW80 series models manufactured from 2014 onward. This guide walks you through the complete replacement procedure specific to Samsung dishwashers, which differ from Bosch and LG in that Samsung mounts the pump at the bottom-left of the unit rather than center-rear.
Before You Start
- Tools needed: Phillips #2 screwdriver, needle-nose pliers, shallow pan or towels, flashlight, channel-lock pliers (optional)
- Parts needed: Samsung drain pump DD31-00005A (~$35-$75)
- Time required: 35-45 minutes
- Difficulty: Intermediate
- Safety warning: Disconnect power at the circuit breaker AND close the water supply valve under the sink. Place towels on the floor beneath the dishwasher. Residual water will drain when you disconnect the pump.
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How to Confirm the Drain Pump Has Failed
Before ordering the replacement pump, verify the issue is actually the pump and not a clogged drain line or blocked filter:
- Check the filter assembly at the tub floor. Remove it and clear any debris. If water drains freely after filter cleaning, the pump is likely fine.
- Check the drain hose under the sink. Disconnect it from the garbage disposal or tailpiece and blow through it. If air passes freely, the hose is not blocked.
- Listen during a drain cycle. A working pump makes a steady hum. A failing pump makes grinding, clicking, or no sound at all.
- Use SmartThings diagnostics if your model supports it. The app will report drain pump motor failure specifically.
If the pump is confirmed failed, proceed with replacement.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Disconnect Power and Water
Turn off the circuit breaker for the dishwasher (typically a 15A or 20A dedicated circuit). Close the hot water supply valve under the kitchen sink by turning it clockwise until it stops. Place towels along the base of the dishwasher. Even with the valve closed, there is residual water in the sump and hoses that will leak during the repair.
Step 2: Remove the Lower Kick Plate
The Samsung dishwasher kick plate (also called the access panel or toe panel) is held by two Phillips #2 screws on either side, plus two plastic clips at the top edge. Remove the two screws first. Then grip the panel at the bottom edge and pull it toward you while gently pressing the top edge inward to release the plastic clips. Samsung uses squeeze-release clips that disengage when you push the top of the panel toward the machine slightly while pulling the bottom forward. Set the panel aside.
Step 3: Locate the Drain Pump
With the kick plate removed, look at the bottom-left area of the dishwasher. The drain pump is a compact motor assembly roughly the size of your fist, with a black plastic housing and two hoses connected to it. One hose comes from the sump (inside the tub) and the other leads out to the drain line under the sink. The pump also has a two-wire electrical connector attached to it. On Samsung models, the pump is mounted with a twist-lock bayonet fitting rather than screws, which makes removal simpler than on many other brands.
Step 4: Disconnect the Electrical Connector
Locate the two-wire connector on the pump motor. Press the locking tab on the connector and pull straight out. Do not pull by the wires. If the connector is stiff, use a small flathead screwdriver to depress the locking tab while pulling. Take a photo with your phone so you remember the wire orientation, though Samsung connectors are keyed to prevent reverse installation.
Step 5: Disconnect the Drain Hoses
You will see two hoses attached to the pump with spring clamps. Have your shallow pan ready beneath the pump to catch water. Using needle-nose pliers, squeeze the spring clamp on the inlet hose (coming from the sump area) and slide it back along the hose about two inches. Then wiggle the hose off the pump inlet nipple. Water will flow out, so be ready. Repeat for the outlet hose. Expect roughly one to two cups of water total.
Step 6: Remove the Old Drain Pump
Samsung drain pumps mount to the sump housing with a quarter-turn bayonet lock. Grip the pump body firmly and rotate it counterclockwise approximately 30 degrees until you feel it release. Then pull the pump straight down and out. If it feels stuck, there may be a small plastic retaining tab that needs to be pressed inward while you rotate. Do not force it. Inspect the old pump for visible damage: cracked impeller blades, burnt motor windings, or debris jammed in the impeller housing.
Step 7: Prepare the New Pump
Unbox the new DD31-00005A pump and compare it side-by-side with the old one. Verify the hose nipple sizes match, the electrical connector is identical, and the bayonet mounting tabs align. Samsung occasionally updates the pump design between manufacturing runs, so the new pump may look slightly different externally while being functionally identical. Check that the new pump's impeller spins freely by rotating it through the inlet opening with your finger.
Step 8: Install the New Drain Pump
Position the new pump into the sump housing mounting bracket. Align the bayonet tabs with the slots in the housing. Push the pump up into position and rotate clockwise approximately 30 degrees until it clicks and locks into place. Verify it is secure by gently pulling down on the pump. It should not move.
Step 9: Reconnect the Drain Hoses
Slide the inlet hose onto the pump inlet nipple and push it on until it seats fully (approximately half an inch of nipple should be inside the hose). Slide the spring clamp back into position over the connection point using needle-nose pliers. Repeat for the outlet hose. Ensure both clamps are positioned squarely over the hose-to-nipple joint, not offset to one side.
Step 10: Reconnect the Electrical Connector
Plug the two-wire connector into the new pump motor. Push until you hear or feel the locking tab click into place. Gently tug the connector to verify it is locked. A loose electrical connection here will cause intermittent 3E errors that are difficult to diagnose later.
Step 11: Test for Leaks Before Reassembly
Before reinstalling the kick plate, turn the water supply back on and restore power at the breaker. Run a quick rinse cycle and watch the pump area with a flashlight during the drain phase. Check both hose connections for dripping. If you see any leaks, power off and reseat the hose connections. Once confirmed dry, cancel the cycle.
Step 12: Reinstall the Kick Plate
Position the kick plate with the top edge angled in first, engaging the plastic clips. Then push the bottom edge flush against the frame and reinstall the two Phillips screws. Do not overtighten as the plastic clip tabs can crack.
Safety First — Know the Risks
Live 120V wiring in a wet environment is one of the most dangerous DIY scenarios. Water + electricity = serious shock risk. Our techs are licensed and insured — let them handle the risk.
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Troubleshooting After Replacement
- Error code 3E persists after replacement: Check that the impeller is not blocked by debris from the old pump. Also verify the drain hose is not kinked where it exits the cabinet. If the 3E code appeared along with error 1E (water supply), the issue may be the control board sending incorrect signals rather than the pump itself.
- Pump runs continuously: This usually indicates a stuck check valve in the drain hose or a control board issue. The new pump is likely fine.
- Grinding noise from new pump: Remove and inspect the new pump. A manufacturing defect (rare) or debris that fell into the sump during installation can cause this. Clear any debris and reinstall.
- Leak at hose connection: The spring clamps may need repositioning. Ensure the hose is pushed fully onto the nipple before the clamp is applied.
When to Call a Professional
- The dishwasher leaks from the center of the sump housing rather than at hose connections, indicating a cracked sump that requires tub disassembly
- Error codes 3E and 7E appear together, suggesting a main control board failure rather than a simple pump issue
- You cannot access the pump because the dishwasher is hardwired (no plug) and you are not comfortable working with electrical junction boxes
- The drain pump has been replaced but the 3E error returns within a week, pointing to an upstream cause like a failing control board relay
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The Real Cost of DIY
Average DIY attempt: $150-400 in tools you may use once, plus the risk of further damage. Our diagnostic visit costs $0 — we find the problem and give you an honest quote.
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Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional
| DIY | Professional | |
|---|---|---|
| Parts | $35-$75 | $35-$75 |
| Labor | $0 | $150-$280 |
| Time | 45 min | 30 min |
| Risk | Low if hose clamps are secure | Warranty included |
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FAQ
Q: What Samsung dishwasher models use the DD31-00005A drain pump? A: The DD31-00005A fits most Samsung DW80 series models including DW80R5060, DW80R5061, DW80K5050, DW80J3020, and DW80N3030. Always cross-reference your specific model number on Samsung Parts before ordering, as some older DW60 models use a different pump with a different connector.
Q: Can a clogged filter damage the drain pump? A: Yes. When the filter is severely clogged, the drain pump works harder to move water through restricted passages. Over time this overheats the pump motor and burns out the windings. Regular filter cleaning (every 2-4 weeks) significantly extends drain pump life.
Q: How long does a Samsung dishwasher drain pump typically last? A: Under normal use with regular filter cleaning, Samsung drain pumps last 5-8 years. In hard water areas or with infrequent filter cleaning, they may fail in as little as 3 years. The pump is not covered under Samsung's standard 1-year warranty after the first year.
Q: Is it worth repairing a drain pump on a 10-year-old Samsung dishwasher? A: At $35-$75 for the part and 45 minutes of your time, drain pump replacement is almost always worthwhile even on older units. However, if your dishwasher also has other issues (rusted rack adjusters, failing control panel, or door latch problems), the combined repair cost may exceed replacement value.
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