How to Replace a Maytag Dryer Heating Element

When your Maytag electric dryer (MED series) runs but produces no heat, the heating element is one of three likely culprits alongside the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat. The heating element is a coiled resistance wire inside a metal housing that converts electrical energy to heat. Over time, the coil can break from thermal cycling, or sections can sag and contact the housing wall — creating a ground fault that trips the circuit breaker.

This guide covers the complete element replacement procedure for Maytag MED electric dryers. Gas models (MGD) do not have a heating element — they use a gas burner assembly instead.

Before You Start

• Tools needed: Phillips #2 screwdriver, 5/16-inch nut driver, multimeter, needle-nose pliers
• Parts needed: Replacement heating element assembly (~$30-$80 depending on model)
• Time required: 30-45 minutes
• Difficulty: Intermediate
• Safety warning: Unplug the dryer completely. Electric dryers operate on 240V. Verify no power at the terminal block with a voltage tester before touching any wires. Never replace a heating element with the dryer plugged in.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Confirm the Element is Faulty

Before replacement, verify the element has failed. Access the element housing (rear panel on most Maytag models — remove 6-8 Phillips screws). Disconnect one wire from the element terminals and test resistance across the two terminals with your multimeter:

• Good element: 8-20 ohms (varies by wattage rating)
• Failed element: Infinite resistance (open circuit = broken coil)
• Grounded element: Continuity between either terminal and the element housing = coil touching housing

Also test the thermal fuse (should show continuity) and cycling thermostat (should show continuity at room temperature). If the thermal fuse is blown, replace it — but also check the element, as a grounded element can blow the fuse.

Step 2: Access the Heating Element Housing

On most Maytag MED dryers, the element housing is accessible from the rear. Remove the rear panel screws (perimeter). The element housing is a rectangular metal box mounted to the rear bulkhead, with two wires connected to the element terminals and additional wires to the high-limit thermostat and thermal fuse mounted on the housing.

On some model years, the element is accessed from inside the cabinet after removing the front panel and drum. Check your specific model's tech sheet for the access direction.

Step 3: Disconnect and Remove the Element

Photograph all wire connections before disconnecting. Label wires if helpful (masking tape + marker). Disconnect the element terminal wires using needle-nose pliers to pull the spade connectors straight off. Do not pull by the wire — grip the connector.

Remove the mounting screws holding the element housing to the bulkhead (typically 2-4 screws). Slide the entire housing assembly out.

Step 4: Transfer Components (if applicable)

Some Maytag element assemblies come as a complete housing with thermostat and fuse pre-mounted. Others are element-only and require transferring the high-limit thermostat and thermal fuse from the old housing to the new one. If transferring, note the exact mounting positions and wire routes.

Step 5: Install the New Element

Slide the new element housing into position. Secure with mounting screws. Reconnect all wires to their correct terminals (reference your photos). Verify:

• Element terminal wires are secure (push spade connectors fully on)
• High-limit thermostat wires connected
• Thermal fuse wires connected
• No wires pinched between the housing and the bulkhead

Step 6: Reassemble and Test

Replace the rear panel. Restore power. Run a timed heat cycle and verify:

• The dryer produces heat within 1-2 minutes of starting
• No tripped breaker (would indicate a grounding issue in the new element)
• Exhaust air is warm at the exterior vent cap
• The Advanced Moisture Sensing system terminates auto-dry cycles correctly

Monitor the first 2-3 loads for proper operation. If the breaker trips, immediately unplug and recheck for wiring errors or a defective replacement element.

Why Maytag Heating Elements Fail

• Normal lifespan exhaustion: The resistance coil fatigues over thousands of heat cycles (typical life: 8-15 years)
• Restricted airflow: Poor venting causes the element to overheat, accelerating coil degradation. The Quick Dry cycle (maximum heat) is especially damaging under restricted airflow conditions
• Voltage surges: Power spikes can break weakened coil sections
• Coil sag: Over time, the coil stretches and sags until it contacts the housing wall, creating a ground fault

Preventing Premature Element Failure

• Clean the exhaust vent system annually
• Clean the lint screen after every load
• Do not overload the dryer (forces longer cycle times at full heat)
• Use the appropriate heat setting for the fabric type
• The Extra Power button adds extra heat and tumble time — use it for heavy items, not routine loads

When to Call a Professional

• The breaker trips repeatedly even after element replacement (may indicate a wiring issue or undersized circuit)
• You see arcing or sparking at the terminal connections
• Multiple components have failed simultaneously (suggests a control board issue sending incorrect voltage)
• You are not comfortable working with 240V electrical systems
• The dryer is within warranty and you suspect a manufacturing defect caused premature failure

Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional

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Need Professional Help?

• Dryer repair service
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• Dryer repair cost guide

FAQ

Q: How do I know if it is the element or the thermal fuse? A: Test both with a multimeter. The thermal fuse should show continuity (if blown = open circuit, no heat). The element should show 8-20 ohms (if open circuit = broken coil, no heat). Both can fail simultaneously if restricted airflow caused overheating.

Q: Can I see a broken element without a multimeter? A: Sometimes. Remove the element housing and visually inspect the coil. Look for a visible break (gap in the coil), a section touching the housing wall, or discolored/distorted sections. However, some breaks are hairline and only visible with magnification.

Q: Are all Maytag dryer heating elements the same? A: No — wattage and physical dimensions vary by model. Common ratings are 4400W and 5400W. Always order by your exact model number. Parts use Whirlpool WP-series numbers and cross-reference across the platform.

Q: How long should a Maytag dryer heating element last? A: With proper venting and normal use, 8-15 years. Maytag's commercial-grade positioning means their elements use the same high-quality Nichrome wire as Whirlpool premium models. Premature failure (under 5 years) usually indicates a venting problem rather than a part defect.

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