Maytag Dishwasher: Replacing Temperature Sensor

Bottom line: A Maytag dishwasher running scalding hot, staying cold, or throwing an F3E1/F3E2 usually has a failed temperature sensor — a cheap thermistor in the sump. It is a beginner 15-25 minute swap; the one caution is not cracking the sump housing on the way out.

Disconnect power at the circuit breaker before testing or replacing the sensor. The sensor itself carries low voltage, but the wiring passes near high-voltage components. A failed sensor causes the control board to either run the heater continuously (overheating water and potentially damaging plastic components) or never heat (cold washes with poor cleaning).

Tools and parts#

Step by step#

1. Confirm the sensor has failed#

Cut power, pull the lower rack, and remove the filter assembly (quarter-turn counter-clockwise on the cylindrical filter, then lift the flat mesh). The sensor is a small cylindrical or oval probe in the sump with a two-wire connector. Disconnect it and test resistance — around 50K ohms at room temperature (about 70F, or 21C) is healthy.

2. Locate the sensor in the tub#

With the rack and filters out, look at the sump at the center bottom. The sensor usually sits to one side near the heating element, or in a plastic housing on the sump wall, and on some models it clips under the lower spray-arm support by the filter housing.

3. Remove the old sensor#

It is held by a single screw, a twist-lock clip, or a push-in grommet depending on the model. Release the fastener and pull the sensor straight out, noting how a grommet seats for reinstallation. Do not force the sensor as excessive force can crack the sump housing (which is a much more expensive repair).

4. Disconnect the wire connector#

Follow the sensor lead to its connector, which may be reachable inside the tub or may require dropping the lower access panel (two 1/4 inch hex screws) to reach under the sump. Press the locking tab and disconnect, feeding the wire through if it routes underneath.

5. Install the new sensor#

Route the new lead along the same path and seat the probe in its mounting location, securing it with the screw, clip, or grommet and confirming a watertight seal if it penetrates the sump wall. Verify the sensor probe is positioned in the water flow path (it must be submerged during operation to accurately read water temperature).

6. Verify with a resistance test#

Before reassembling, confirm the new sensor reads correctly — roughly 50K ohms across the terminals at room temperature. This proves the part is good and the connector is making solid contact before you button it up.

7. Reassemble and clear the code#

Refit the filter, rack, and any panel, then restore power. An F3E1 or F3E2 should clear once the circuit reads normally; if it lingers, power-cycle at the breaker for 60 seconds. Run a Normal cycle and confirm the heater engages during the wash.

8. Monitor the first few cycles#

The board uses temperature data to set cycle length and heater timing, so cycle times may shift slightly with an accurate sensor. If cycles run much longer than before — more than 30 minutes — the new sensor may be reading low and driving the heater too long, so recheck it.

If the code persists#

• F3E1/F3E2 stays: confirm the connector clicked home and the sensor reads near 50K ohms cold; a loose connector reads open like a failed sensor.
• Water runs too hot: a sensor reading low keeps the heater on — verify the new part and its placement in the flow path.
• Cold, poor cleaning: an open sensor circuit stops heating; recheck the wiring for corrosion near the sump.

When to call a pro#

A cracked sump housing from a forced removal is a far bigger repair worth a technician. See our dishwasher repair cost guide or book a same-day repair.