How to Replace a Maytag Dishwasher Inlet Valve

Prove the valve is the problem#

Before buying a valve, rule out the supply. Check the shutoff under the sink is fully open, then disconnect the supply line at the dishwasher inlet, aim it into a bucket, and briefly open the valve — weak or no flow means the problem is upstream, not the dishwasher. If supply is strong, test the valve's solenoid coil with a meter: a healthy inlet valve reads between 500 and 1500 ohms, and an open reading means the coil has burned out.

Safety warning: Disconnect power at the circuit breaker AND turn off the water supply valve under the kitchen sink. Even with power off, opening the water line will release pressure. Have towels and a bucket ready.

What you need#

Step by step#

1 - Cut power and water, open the lower panel. Trip the breaker and close the hot-water shutoff under the sink, then remove the lower access panel and set towels and the bucket under the left side where the valve lives.

2 - Disconnect the supply line. Loosen the compression fitting on the braided or copper supply line with pliers and pull it free; some water will drain, so aim it into the bucket.

3 - Free the outlet hose. The rubber outlet hose to the tub is held by a spring clamp — squeeze it back with pliers and pull the hose off the valve spigot, catching the water that follows.

4 - Unplug the wiring. Press the tab on the valve's connector and pull it off, usually two wires for a single solenoid, or two connectors on dual hot-and-cold valves; photograph first.

5 - Remove the old valve. Back out the one or two mounting screws or release the clips and slide the valve out, noting its orientation — supply toward the rear wall, outlet up toward the tub.

6 - Check the screen and fit the new valve. Inspect the inlet screen and clean the supply-line screen if your water carries sediment, then mount the new valve the same way round, reconnect the outlet hose and clamp, tighten the supply fitting, and reconnect the wiring.

7 - Leak-test, then power up. Open the water supply first and check every joint is dry, tightening as needed. Once leak-free, restore power and run a rinse — listen for the valve humming and water flowing, with a fill of roughly 90 to 120 seconds.

If it still will not fill#

• Confirm the sink shutoff is fully open, its handle parallel to the pipe.
• A click at fill with no water means the supply is restricted, not the valve.
• A float switch stuck up tells the board the tub is full when it is empty — free it.
• If the new valve fills but never shuts off, the solenoid is stuck open — cut the water at once and replace it, usually a defective part.

When to call a professional#

Bring in a technician if the supply is soldered copper rather than a hose fitting, if F2E1 persists with a good valve and confirmed supply (a board or float-switch issue), if you find water damage in the panel area, or if the inlet threads are stripped.

Need professional help?#

• Dishwasher repair service
• Maytag appliance repair
• Dishwasher repair cost guide