How to Replace a Maytag Dishwasher Drain Pump

When this pump fails, water stays in the bottom of the tub after the cycle and the panel typically shows the F9E1 code. Maytag dishwashers use the same drain pump as all Whirlpool Corporation brands — part WPW10348269 — a compact motor with an integrated impeller and check valve that mounts to the sump housing under the tub. Maytag's stainless steel chopper grinds food waste before it reaches the drain pump, so these pumps tend to last longer than pumps on filter-only dishwashers, but hard objects that bypass or damage the chopper (glass, metal, broken plastics) can still jam the impeller.

Tools, Parts, and Safety First#

• Tools needed: 1/4-inch hex driver, pliers (for spring clamps), Torx T20 driver, towels, shallow pan or baking sheet
• Parts needed: Drain pump WPW10348269 (varies by model and area)
• Time required: 25-40 minutes
• Difficulty: Intermediate
• Safety warning: Disconnect power at the circuit breaker and turn off the water supply valve under the sink. Residual water will spill when you disconnect the pump. Have towels and a pan ready.

Step-by-Step Instructions#

Step 1 — Prepare the dishwasher#

Kill the breaker and close the hot-water supply valve under the sink. Remove as much standing water from the tub as you can (scoop with a cup, absorb with towels), pull the lower rack and the filter assembly, spread towels in front of the unit, and slide a shallow pan or baking sheet under the front to catch residual water.

Step 2 — Remove the lower access panel#

The kick plate is held by two 1/4-inch hex screws along the bottom edge of the front panel (some models use Phillips). Remove both and pull the panel forward and down, which opens access to the underside of the tub and the drain pump.

Step 3 — Locate the drain pump#

The drain pump mounts on the left of the sump housing at the bottom of the tub — a compact cylindrical motor with a wire-harness connector, a rubber boot to the sump, and a ribbed drain hose on its outlet. It is smaller than the central circulation pump and sits lower. Confirm it by tracing the drain hose back from under the sink (it runs from under the dishwasher to the disposal or sink tailpiece).

Step 4 — Disconnect the electrical connector#

Press the locking tab on the wire-harness connector and pull it straight off the pump terminals (photograph first if you like, though it is keyed and only fits one way). If the connector is corroded, plan to replace the harness pigtail too.

Step 5 — Remove the drain hose from the pump#

Squeeze the spring clamp on the drain hose at the pump outlet with pliers, slide it back about 2 inches along the hose, and pull the hose off the outlet spigot — water will flow out, so direct it into your pan. If the hose is damaged, discolored, or rigid, replace it now while you are here.

Step 6 — Remove the pump from the sump#

Most Maytag models use a quarter-turn bayonet mount, so twist the pump body counterclockwise about 90 degrees until it releases, then pull it straight out — some residual sump water will drain. On some model years the pump is held by two screws instead of a bayonet, so check your model before twisting.

Step 7 — Inspect the sump and install the new pump#

Look into the sump opening where the pump mounted and clear any debris, then check the rubber seal ring where the pump mates to the sump — a damaged or hardened ring will leak, so replace it if needed (some pump kits include it). Insert the new pump and twist clockwise until it locks (or secure with screws on applicable models); it should fit snugly with no wobble.

Step 8 — Reconnect and test#

Slide the drain hose onto the new pump's outlet spigot and reposition the spring clamp over the joint, reconnect the wire harness until it clicks, and reinstall the kick plate. Restore water and power, then run a Cancel/Drain cycle from the control panel and listen for the pump engaging (a steady hum for 2-3 minutes). Check under the dishwasher for leaks at the pump-to-sump connection and the hose clamp, then run a full Normal cycle and verify complete drainage at the end.

Diagnosing Pump Failure vs. Other Drain Issues#

Before replacing the pump, confirm it is the problem and not a simpler blockage. If the pump hums but does not drain, the impeller is jammed by debris or broken (replacement is correct). If the pump is silent during the drain phase, the motor may be burned out (test resistance — 5-40 ohms is healthy, open means failed) or the board is not sending power. If the pump runs and water moves but drains slowly, the restriction is downstream in the drain hose, air gap, or disposal knockout. If water returns to the tub after draining, the check valve inside the pump has failed (replacement fixes it).

Why Maytag Drain Pumps Fail#

The common failure modes are foreign-object damage to the impeller (glass, plastic, or metal passing through or bypassing the chopper), motor-winding burnout from running against a blocked drain hose (the pump overheats pushing against a restriction), bearing wear that lets the impeller contact the housing (a grinding noise precedes full failure), and check-valve deterioration that allows backflow, forcing the pump to work harder each cycle. Maytag's chopper significantly extends pump life by keeping organic debris off the impeller, so most Maytag pump failures involve hard objects the chopper cannot grind rather than food buildup. That distinction is worth keeping in mind at install time: if you found a shard of glass or a chip of hard plastic wedged in the old impeller, the same debris field is likely still sitting in the sump, so clear it thoroughly before the new pump goes in, or the fresh impeller meets the same fate on the next cycle. A minute spent picking the sump clean protects the part you just paid for.

Troubleshooting After Pump Replacement#

If it still does not drain after the new pump, verify the drain hose has a proper high loop to the countertop underside, check the disposal knockout (on a newly installed disposal), run diagnostic mode to confirm the board activates the drain-pump output, and check for a kinked drain hose behind the dishwasher or where it passes through the cabinet side wall.

When Should You Call a Professional?#

EasyBear technicians serving Sacramento and the Bay Area carry Maytag-specific diagnostic tools and replacement parts on every service call. Call one if you cannot reach the pump because a hard-wired installation blocks the access panel, if the pump and all drain paths are clear but F9E1 persists (a control-board or wiring issue), or if water is leaking from the sump housing itself rather than the pump connection (a cracked sump, a more involved repair).

Need Professional Help?#

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• Maytag appliance repair
• Dishwasher repair cost guide

Need help with this repair? Schedule a free diagnostic — same-day Maytag dishwasher service across the Bay Area.