Maytag Dishwasher: Replacing the Heating Element

Bottom line: A Maytag dishwasher that will not dry, or throws an F6E4, usually has a failed heating element — an advanced 35-50 minute swap that lives or dies on a watertight grommet seal. Confirm the element is actually open or grounded before you buy the part.

Disconnect power at the circuit breaker AND verify with a non-contact voltage tester. The heating element operates on 120V at up to 10 amps. Even after disconnecting, capacitors on the board may retain charge for several minutes.

Tools and parts#

Step by step#

1. Confirm the element has failed#

Kill the breaker and remove the lower access panel (two 1/4 inch hex screws along the bottom front). Find the two element terminal posts on the right of the tub bottom, pull the spade connectors, and test the element for resistance. If either terminal shows continuity to the tub, the element has a ground fault and must be replaced even if resistance across terminals is normal.

2. Drain the tub#

Open the door and soak up any standing water from the tub bottom with towels. Remove the lower rack and the filter assembly (a quarter-turn counter-clockwise on the cylindrical filter, then lift the flat mesh). A dry tub keeps water from pouring out when the element comes free.

3. Disconnect the wiring underneath#

From below, note which wire goes to which terminal. On most Maytag models both wires match and either terminal accepts either, since the element is not polarity-sensitive, but photograph it anyway. Pull the spade connectors off with pliers — do not pull by the wires.

4. Remove the mounting hardware#

Each terminal is held by a nut underneath that compresses a rubber grommet sealing the element to the tub. Back both nuts off with a 5/16 inch nut driver. With the nuts gone, the element is free to push up into the tub.

5. Lift out the old element#

Reach in from above, grasp the horseshoe-shaped element, and lift it straight up, working it out through the door opening with a little wiggling if mineral deposits have built up. Inspect the mounting holes in the tub floor and clean away any scale or old sealant.

6. Fit new grommets and element#

Slide the new rubber grommets onto the terminal posts of the new element, set it in the tub with the terminals over the holes, and push them down until the grommets seat firmly against the tub floor. From underneath, thread the mounting nuts on. Tighten them firmly enough to compress the grommets and create a watertight seal, but do not overtighten.

7. Reconnect and leak-test#

Push the spade connectors on firmly; if they feel loose, crimp new ones. Before restoring power, pour a cup of water over each mounting grommet inside the tub and check underneath for drips. Any leak means a grommet is not seated right.

8. Restore power and verify heat#

Turn the breaker back on and run a Heated Dry cycle, or enter diagnostics (three buttons in a 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 sequence within 8 seconds) to trigger the heater test. After 3-4 minutes the tub interior near the bottom should feel warm. Do not touch the element directly as it reaches 160+ degrees F when operational.

If it still won't heat#

• Breaker trips when the heater energizes: a ground fault where the internal wire touches the sheath; the element must be replaced even if it heats briefly before tripping.
• F6E4 stays on some models: the board sees an open heater circuit; a few models block cycle start until it clears.
• No dry but no code: confirm the spade connectors grip tightly and the element reads correct resistance.

When to call a pro#

A ground fault that energizes the chassis on a non-GFCI breaker is a shock risk best handed off. See our dishwasher repair cost guide or book a same-day repair.