How to Replace an LG Dishwasher Heating Element

LG hides its heater beneath the stainless tub floor rather than exposing a calrod inside the tub. That is safer for plastics but means you reach the element from underneath, so plan to pull the machine out.

Tools and parts#

• Tools: Phillips #2 screwdriver, Torx T15 driver, multimeter, adjustable wrench, towels, a sheet of cardboard to lie on
• Part: LG dishwasher heater assembly (model-specific)
• Time: 45-60 minutes
• Difficulty: Advanced
• Safety warning: Disconnect power at the circuit breaker AND unplug at the outlet. The heating element operates at 120V with significant current draw. Verify power is off with a non-contact voltage tester before touching any wiring. Also close the water supply valve.

Confirm the heater is the fault first#

An HE code is the direct signal that the board saw too little temperature rise, but a bad thermistor can trigger it too, so verify before you buy. Cold water pooled in the tub after 20 minutes of a hot cycle — it should sit around 130-150F — points at the heater, and a sanitize cycle that never lights its indicator means the water never reached 155F. Meter the element across its two terminals: 10-30 ohms is good, an open (OL) reading is a burned-through element, and under 5 ohms suggests a short. While you are there, meter the thermistor too, since about 40,000-60,000 ohms at room temperature is normal and an OL or near-zero reading makes the sensor, not the heater, your culprit.

Step 1 — Prep the machine#

Kill power at the breaker, unplug, and close the water valve. Open the door, pull both racks, lift out the filter assembly, and bail the standing water from the sump with a cup or turkey baster. Lay towels across the floor in front of the unit.

Step 2 — Pull the dishwasher out#

Remove the two mounting screws at the top of the door frame that anchor the unit to the countertop underside. Under the sink, disconnect and cap the drain hose, then disconnect the water supply line. Ease the dishwasher forward out of its cabinet so you can get under it.

Step 3 — Open the base#

Tip the machine back against the counter behind it — a helper holding it at about 30 degrees works well — or lay it on its back on a blanket. Take out the 4-6 Phillips screws in the bottom access plate, then peel back the LoDecibel insulation pad to expose the tub underside, where the heater terminals pass through the floor on rubber-grommet seals.

Step 4 — Disconnect the heater#

Find the two heater terminals protruding from the tub bottom and pull each spade connector straight off — needle-nose pliers help if they are tight. Photograph or label which wire lands on which terminal before you forget.

Step 5 — Remove the old element#

The element is held by a central mounting nut and bracket from outside. Back that nut off (10mm or an adjustable wrench) to release the rubber compression gasket that forms the watertight seal. Push the terminals up through the floor from below, then go inside the tub and lift the curved element rod out of its recessed channel.

Step 6 — Fit the new element#

Feed the new element down through the tub-floor openings from inside and settle it into the recessed channel. From underneath, slide the compression gasket over the terminals and thread the mounting nut, tightening only until the gasket bulges slightly against the tub — overtightening splits it. Reconnect the two spade wires to their terminals.

Step 7 — Reassemble and reinstall#

Refit the insulation pad and base plate, slide the machine back into its opening, and reconnect the water line (hand-tight plus a quarter turn), the drain hose (onto the barb, clamped), and the countertop mounting screws. Reopen the water valve and check the supply joint for drips.

Step 8 — Test the new heater#

Restore power, drop the filter back in, and run a Normal cycle on the hot-wash setting. After 15-20 minutes the tub water should be clearly hot (130F and up), and the cycle should finish with no HE code. If your model offers Sanitize, run it and confirm the indicator lights at the end, which proves the water hit 155F.

When to call a professional#

Get help if pulling the unit and breaking plumbing is out of your comfort zone, if the tub floor is corroded around the mounting holes so the seal is suspect, if HE persists after both a new heater and a new thermistor (a board issue), or if custom cabinetry traps the dishwasher in place.

• Dishwasher repair service
• LG appliance repair
• Dishwasher repair cost guide

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