How to Replace the Drain Solenoid Valve on a GE Dishwasher

Older GE dishwashers (pre-2010 models) use a drain solenoid valve rather than a dedicated drain pump. In this design, the main wash motor reverses direction to pump water out, and a solenoid-actuated valve directs water flow to the drain hose. When this solenoid fails, the dishwasher cannot switch from wash mode to drain mode, leaving standing water in the tub despite the motor running.

Newer GE dishwashers (2010+) use a separate drain pump motor and do not have this solenoid valve. If your GE model has a separate drain pump (small motor visible behind the kick plate), see our drain pump replacement guide instead.

Before You Start

• Tools needed: Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4-inch hex driver, needle-nose pliers, multimeter, towels
• Parts needed: Drain solenoid kit (varies by model; check your tech sheet for the exact part number). Cost: $20-$55
• Time required: 30-45 minutes
• Difficulty: Intermediate
• Safety warning: Turn off the circuit breaker. The solenoid operates on 120V. Residual water in the sump and drain path will need to be removed.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Confirm Your GE Model Uses a Drain Solenoid

This repair applies only to older GE dishwashers with a single wash motor that handles both washing and draining by reversing direction. Check by removing the kick plate and looking underneath:

• If you see a small separate motor (3 inches diameter) connected to the drain hose: You have a modern drain pump system. See our drain pump guide.
• If the drain hose connects directly to the sump housing near the main motor with a valve mechanism: You have a solenoid-actuated drain system. Continue with this guide.

Also check your tech sheet (inside the control console or behind the kick plate) for a drain solenoid listed in the components.

Step 2: Remove Standing Water

Since the unit cannot drain on its own, bail out standing water from the tub. Remove the filter assembly (twist counterclockwise) and use a sponge, towels, or wet/dry vacuum to remove as much water as possible from the sump area.

Step 3: Remove the Kick Plate and Locate the Solenoid

Turn off the breaker. Remove the kick plate (two 1/4-inch hex screws). The drain solenoid is mounted on the side of the sump housing near where the drain hose connects. It is a small cylindrical electromagnetic device (about 2 inches long) with a plunger that opens or closes the drain port.

Identify:

• The two-wire electrical connector on the solenoid
• The solenoid plunger (connects to the drain valve mechanism)
• The mounting bracket or retaining clip holding the solenoid to the sump

Step 4: Test the Solenoid Electrically

Disconnect the wire connector from the solenoid. Set your multimeter to resistance (ohms). Measure across the two solenoid terminals:

• Good reading: 40-80 ohms (typical for GE drain solenoids)
• Bad reading: Infinite (open coil, solenoid is dead)
• Bad reading: Very low (under 5 ohms, shorted coil)

If the solenoid tests good electrically, the problem may be a stuck plunger (mechanical failure) rather than electrical. Try pushing the plunger in by hand. If it is stuck and does not move freely, replace the solenoid regardless of the electrical test.

Step 5: Remove the Old Drain Solenoid

Disconnect the wire connector (already done from testing). The solenoid is attached to the sump by a mounting bracket with 1-2 Phillips screws, or a spring clip. Remove the fastener.

The solenoid plunger connects to the drain valve mechanism via a lever or direct-push connection. Note how it connects (photograph). Disconnect the plunger from the valve linkage (usually by pulling straight off or removing a retaining clip with needle-nose pliers).

Remove the solenoid.

Step 6: Install the New Drain Solenoid

Position the new solenoid on the mounting bracket. Connect the plunger to the drain valve linkage in the same orientation as the original. Secure the mounting bracket with the Phillips screws or spring clip.

Verify the plunger moves freely by hand and that it actuates the drain valve properly (you should feel the valve open and close as you push and release the plunger).

Reconnect the wire connector.

Step 7: Test the Drain Operation

Replace the kick plate. Restore power at the breaker. Start any cycle and let it fill, then press Cancel to initiate a drain sequence. Listen for the motor reversing and the solenoid clicking (a distinct click when it energizes to open the drain path).

Check that water drains from the tub. If the motor runs and the solenoid clicks but water does not drain, there is a blockage in the drain hose or air gap downstream.

Step 8: Run a Full Cycle Verification

Run a complete Normal cycle to verify the dishwasher fills, washes, drains, and dries correctly. At the end of the cycle, open the door and confirm no standing water remains in the tub.

Troubleshooting After Solenoid Replacement

• Solenoid clicks but does not drain: The drain valve linkage is not properly connected. Recheck the plunger-to-valve connection. Also check for downstream blockages.
• No click from solenoid during drain phase: The control board is not energizing the solenoid. Check the wire connector. If connected properly, the timer (mechanical models) or control board may be faulty.
• Motor hums but does not reverse: On models where the motor must reverse for draining, a failed start capacitor or motor winding issue prevents reversal. This is a motor problem, not a solenoid problem.
• Slow drain with new solenoid: The drain valve is not opening fully. Check plunger alignment and that no debris is blocking the valve port.

Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional

When to Call a Professional

• The drain valve mechanism inside the sump is mechanically broken (requires sump disassembly)
• The main wash motor does not reverse direction (motor or capacitor failure)
• You cannot identify your model's drain system type
• The dishwasher is extremely old (15+ years) and multiple components are failing

Need Professional Help?

• Dishwasher repair service
• GE appliance repair
• Dishwasher repair cost guide

FAQ

Q: Do all GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid? A: No. Only older GE models (approximately pre-2010) that use a reversing motor for drain operation have a drain solenoid. All current GE dishwashers use a separate drain pump motor that does not require a solenoid valve. If your model is from 2010 or later, you likely have a drain pump instead.

Q: What is the difference between a drain solenoid and a drain pump? A: A drain solenoid is an electromagnetic valve that redirects water flow when the main motor reverses. A drain pump is a separate dedicated motor that only moves water out of the dishwasher. Drain pumps are simpler and more reliable, which is why newer GE models switched to them.

Q: Can I upgrade my old GE dishwasher from solenoid drain to pump drain? A: No. The two systems use completely different sump housings, motors, and control board outputs. Converting is not practical. If your solenoid-drain model is failing frequently, consider replacing the entire dishwasher with a modern GE model.

Q: My GE dishwasher's drain solenoid buzzes loudly when it activates. Is that normal? A: A faint click or brief buzz when the solenoid energizes is normal. Continuous loud buzzing indicates the solenoid is energized but the plunger cannot fully seat (possibly debris blocking the valve). Continuous buzzing also overheats the solenoid coil and can burn it out. Investigate immediately.

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