How to Replace the Heating Element in a GE Dishwasher (Sump Heater)

Modern GE dishwashers use a sump-mounted heating element that heats wash water and provides drying heat. Unlike older exposed calrod elements visible on the tub floor, the current design integrates the heater into the sump/pump assembly underneath the tub. When this heater fails, you notice dishes not drying, water not getting hot enough for proper cleaning, the Sanitize cycle failing, or error code C3 on the display.

This guide covers heater replacement on GE, GE Profile, and GE Cafe dishwashers with the sump-mounted design (most models from 2012 forward, GDT/GDP series). Older GE models with visible calrod elements on the tub floor follow a different procedure (noted at the end).

Before You Start

• Tools needed: Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4-inch hex driver, channel-lock pliers, multimeter, towels, bucket (to catch residual water)
• Parts needed: Heating element assembly (varies by model; check your tech sheet for exact part number). Cost: $30-$80
• Time required: 40-60 minutes
• Difficulty: Advanced
• Safety warning: Turn off the circuit breaker AND close the water supply valve. The heater connects to 120V. Residual water in the sump will leak when disconnecting the heater. Place towels and a bucket under the work area.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Confirm the Heater Has Failed

Before replacing the heater, confirm it is actually the failed component:

1. Turn off the breaker
2. Remove the kick plate (two 1/4-inch hex screws)
3. Locate the heater element on the sump assembly. It has two wire terminals accessible from underneath
4. Disconnect both wires from the heater terminals
5. Set your multimeter to resistance (ohms). Touch one probe to each heater terminal
6. A good GE dishwasher heater reads 10-20 ohms. Infinite resistance (OL on the meter) means the element is burned open and needs replacement
7. Also test from each terminal to the metal chassis (ground). Any reading other than infinite means the element is short-circuiting to ground (this trips your breaker during the heat phase)

If the heater tests good (10-20 ohms, no ground fault) but the dishwasher still does not heat, the problem may be the control board not sending voltage to the heater, or the thermistor giving incorrect temperature readings.

Step 2: Prepare for Disassembly

With the breaker off, close the water supply valve under the sink. Open the dishwasher door and remove the lower rack and spray arm (turn the clip nut counterclockwise to release the lower arm). Remove the filter assembly (twist counterclockwise a quarter turn).

Place towels under the dishwasher at the kick plate opening. There will be residual water in the sump that drains out when you disconnect the heater.

Step 3: Disconnect the Heater Wires and Water Connections

Working from underneath (behind the kick plate), identify the heater element mounted on or near the sump housing. On most GE models, it is a tubular element that passes through the sump wall with rubber gaskets sealing each end.

Disconnect the two wire terminals from the heater (pull straight off the spade connectors). Note which wire goes to which terminal (photograph for reference). On some models, the wires are the same color but terminal position matters for the control board's monitoring circuit.

Step 4: Remove the Heater Element

The heater is secured to the sump by one of two methods depending on model year:

Bracket-mounted (older GE): Two Phillips screws hold a bracket that clamps the heater in place. Remove the screws and slide the heater out of the sump housing. The rubber gaskets may come out with the element or remain in the sump wall.

Retaining nut (newer GE): A large nut on the outside of the sump clamps the heater against a gasket. Use channel-lock pliers to turn the nut counterclockwise. Once loose, pull the heater element out from inside the tub (looking down through the filter opening) or from underneath.

Have the bucket ready as water will flow out of the sump once the heater seal is broken.

Step 5: Inspect and Prepare the Mounting Area

With the heater removed, inspect the gasket seats in the sump wall. Clean any scale or debris from the mounting surfaces. If the original gaskets are damaged, cracked, or compressed flat, use the new gaskets that come with the replacement heater. A poor seal here causes slow leaks underneath the dishwasher.

Step 6: Install the New Heater Element

Insert the new element through the sump wall in the same orientation as the original. Ensure the rubber gaskets are properly seated (one on each side of the sump wall, sandwiching the wall between them).

For bracket-mounted: slide the element in and secure with the bracket screws. Tighten evenly.

For retaining-nut: seat the element and thread the retaining nut on from the outside. Tighten until snug plus a quarter turn. Do not overtighten as this can crack the sump housing.

Step 7: Reconnect Wires and Reassemble

Push the spade connectors back onto the heater terminals in the correct positions per your photograph. Ensure they are fully seated (tug gently to confirm they are locked on).

Replace the filter assembly (ultra-fine mesh first, then cylindrical filter twisted clockwise). Reinstall the lower spray arm (push onto tower, tighten clip nut clockwise). Put the lower rack back. Replace the kick plate.

Step 8: Test for Leaks and Proper Operation

Open the water supply valve. Restore power at the breaker. Run a short cycle (Rinse Only) and immediately check underneath the dishwasher for any dripping at the heater connections. Even a slow drip will cause water damage over time.

After confirming no leaks, run a full Normal or Heavy cycle. Mid-cycle, open the door during the main wash phase and feel the water temperature (carefully, it should be quite hot). After the cycle completes, check that dishes are dry and the display shows no error codes.

Alternative: Older Calrod-Style Element Replacement

Pre-2012 GE dishwashers have a visible horseshoe-shaped calrod element mounted to the tub floor. To replace:

1. Remove the lower rack and spray arm
2. Access the terminals from underneath (behind kick plate)
3. Remove the retaining nut from each terminal post
4. Push the element up and out from inside the tub
5. Insert the new element from inside the tub, with terminals protruding below
6. Secure with retaining nuts from underneath
7. Reconnect wires

Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional

When to Call a Professional

• The sump housing is cracked (the heater mounting area is damaged)
• You cannot identify which heater part number fits your model
• The heater tests good but the dishwasher still does not heat (likely a control board relay failure, requires electrical diagnosis)
• Water is leaking from the sump area and you cannot identify the source

Need Professional Help?

• Dishwasher repair service
• GE appliance repair
• Dishwasher repair cost guide

FAQ

Q: How do I know if my GE dishwasher has a sump heater or an exposed calrod element? A: Open the dishwasher and look at the tub floor (with lower rack and spray arm removed). If you see a metal horseshoe-shaped element, that is a calrod. If the tub floor is smooth stainless steel with just the filter housing visible, your heater is sump-mounted underneath.

Q: Can a failed heater cause my GE dishwasher to not dry dishes? A: Yes. GE dishwashers that use heated dry rely on this element to warm the air during the dry phase. If the heater is open (burned out), it cannot heat water OR dry dishes. Models with condensation drying (some newer GE units) may still partially dry without the heater but less effectively.

Q: Why does my GE dishwasher trip the breaker only during the heating phase? A: The heating element has developed a ground fault (short to the metal chassis). Test from each heater terminal to the dishwasher frame with a multimeter. Any continuity reading confirms the element is shorted and must be replaced immediately. Running a grounded element risks electrical shock.

Q: Does the GE Sanitize cycle require the heater to work? A: Yes. The Sanitize cycle heats water to at least 150F to kill bacteria. If the heater is dead, the cycle cannot reach this temperature and will eventually display error code C3 (temperature not achieved). The Sanitize indicator light will not illuminate at the end of the cycle.

---

Need a certified technician? Book same-day repair →