How to Replace the Heating Element on a Frigidaire Electric Dryer
The heating element in Frigidaire electric dryers is a coiled resistance wire mounted in a ceramic or mica frame inside a metal housing. When the coil breaks (most common failure), the dryer tumbles but produces no heat. When the coil sags and contacts the housing (grounded element), it may trip the breaker or cause intermittent heating. Both conditions require element replacement.
Frigidaire dryers provide easy rear access to the element housing — unlike some brands that require full disassembly. The element slides out of its housing after removing the rear access panel and disconnecting 2 wires. This is one of the most straightforward Frigidaire dryer repairs.
Before You Start
- Tools needed: Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4-inch nut driver, multimeter
- Parts needed: Heating element assembly (~$30-$60, model-specific — match wattage)
- Time required: 20-30 minutes
- Difficulty: Beginner
- Safety warning: Unplug the dryer. Element terminals carry 240V during operation. Wait 5 minutes after unplugging before touching terminals (capacitor discharge).
Do You Have the Right Tools?
Gas leak detector ($130), thermal fuse tester ($95), belt tension gauge, and vent inspection camera ($180). Our technician arrives with $15K+ in professional tools — your diagnostic is free.
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Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Diagnose the Element
With the dryer unplugged, remove the rear element access panel (4-6 screws — this is a separate small panel, not the entire rear). Locate the element housing — a metal box or channel with 2 wires connected.
Disconnect one wire from the element (prevents reading through other circuits). Test with multimeter across both element terminals:
- 10-50 ohms = element is intact (not the problem)
- Infinite/OL = element coil is broken (replace it)
Also test each terminal to the element housing/ground:
- No continuity = normal (element insulated from housing)
- Any continuity = grounded element (coil touching housing — replace immediately)
Step 2: Remove the Element Housing
Disconnect both wires from the element terminals. Remove the mounting screws or bracket holding the element housing in place (typically 1-2 screws). Slide the element assembly straight out of its compartment.
Step 3: Transfer Any Reusable Components
Some Frigidaire element assemblies include the housing, while others are just the element (coil + frame) that inserts into the existing housing. If your replacement is element-only: remove the old coil assembly from the housing (it slides or clips out) and insert the new one.
Verify the new element wattage matches the original. Using an overpowered element causes overheating and premature thermal fuse failure.
Step 4: Install the New Element
Slide the new element housing (or element-in-housing) into the compartment. Secure with mounting screws. Reconnect both wires to the element terminals — each terminal has a push-on (spade) connector. Push firmly until seated.
Step 5: Clean the Exhaust Path
Before reassembly, clean the lint from inside the dryer around the element area. A clogged exhaust causes the element to overheat, which causes coil sag, which causes grounding or premature failure. Clean the blower housing and exhaust vent while you have access.
Step 6: Test
Replace the access panel. Plug in and run a timed-dry cycle on high heat. The dryer should produce strong heat within 2-3 minutes. Check at the exhaust vent outside — hot air should be flowing. If no heat: verify both breaker poles are on (losing one leg = motor runs but no heat at 240V).
Troubleshooting Common Issues
- New element glows red but dryer still does not dry: The element is working but airflow is restricted. Clean exhaust vent, blower housing, and lint trap path.
- Breaker trips with new element: Check element-to-ground continuity — even new elements can be defective. Also verify wattage match (overpowered = overcurrent).
- Element burns out again within months: Exhaust restriction is causing overheating. The vent path MUST be clear. Also check the cycling thermostat — if it fails to cycle the element off at the set temperature, the element runs continuously and overheats.
Safety First — Know the Risks
Gas dryers carry carbon monoxide and explosion risk. Even electric dryers involve 240V circuits that can deliver a fatal shock. Our techs are licensed and insured — let them handle the risk.
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When to Call a Professional
- If the breaker repeatedly trips despite a new element testing good — wiring inside the dryer may have heat damage
- If the element compartment shows signs of arcing or fire damage
- If you are not comfortable working with 240V circuit components
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Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional
| DIY | Professional | |
|---|---|---|
| Parts | $30-$60 | $30-$60 |
| Labor | $0 | $120-$200 |
| Time | 0.4h | 0.3h |
| Risk | Low | Warranty included |
The Real Cost of DIY
Average DIY attempt: $150-400 in tools you may use once, plus the risk of further damage. Our diagnostic visit costs $0 — we find the problem and give you an honest quote.
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FAQ
Q: How do I test it? A: Multimeter across terminals: 10-50 ohms = good, infinite = broken. Each terminal to housing: any reading = grounded (must replace).
Q: Where is it? A: Rear access panel (4-6 screws). Element in metal housing with 2 wires. Slides out after disconnecting.
Q: Why does it keep burning out? A: Restricted exhaust airflow causes overheating. Always clean the vent path when replacing an element.
Q: How much does it cost? A: $30-$60 for the part. 20-30 minute DIY repair saves $120-200 in professional labor.
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