Frigidaire Dishwasher: Replace Heating Element

Test before you buy#

Kill the breaker, pull the kick plate (two Phillips screws), and find the element's two terminals poking through the tub bottom. Pull the spade connectors and meter across the terminals: a good element reads about 10-30 ohms, and an open (OL) means it is burned out. Then test for a ground fault — one probe on a terminal, the other on the bare frame — where you want infinite resistance. Any reading to the frame means the element has shorted to ground and is a shock hazard; replace it right away.

Tools and safety#

• Tools: Phillips #2 screwdriver, 1/4-inch nut driver, an adjustable wrench or pliers, a multimeter, towels
• Time: 40-50 minutes · Difficulty: advanced
• Safety: cut the breaker AND close the water valve. The element runs on 120V and draws real current; always run the ground-fault test before handling it.

Step-by-step#

1. Cut power and water, bail the tub#

With the breaker off and the supply valve closed, open the door and sponge or vacuum any standing water from the tub bottom — less water means less spill when the seal breaks.

2. Open the access panel#

Remove the two kick-plate screws and pull the panel forward to reach the underside of the tub. Lay towels down, since some water drips when the element seal releases.

3. Disconnect the element wires#

Each terminal has a spade connector. Note or photograph which wire goes where — on some models they are not interchangeable, one being neutral and the other hot through the board relay. Pull each connector straight off, gripping the connector (not the wire) with needle-nose pliers if it is stiff.

4. Remove the mounting hardware#

The element is held by a retaining nut on each terminal from below, sealed by a rubber compression grommet. Back the nuts off with the 1/4-inch nut driver or the wrench; as they loosen, the grommets release their grip on the posts.

5. Lift out the old element#

Push the terminal posts up and, from inside the tub through the door, work the ring element up out of its groove — maneuvering it past the lower spray-arm hub and the filter. If mineral scale has it stuck, rock it gently while lifting; do not force it or you can crack the tub. Clean scale from the mounting holes.

6. Fit the new element#

Set the new element (confirm the diameter and terminal spacing match) into the bottom groove and feed the posts through the holes. From below, fit fresh grommets if needed and the retaining nuts, tightening snugly so the grommets compress evenly for a watertight seal — over-tightening splits them, under-tightening leaks.

7. Reconnect and leak-test#

Push the spade connectors fully back on, open the water, and run just the fill phase (start a cycle, cancel after two minutes). Watch the terminal penetrations underneath for drips; a slow drip wants another quarter turn on the nuts.

8. Reassemble and full test#

Refit the kick plate, restore power, and run a full Normal or Heavy cycle with a few dishes. They should come out hot, and a heated-dry model should finish dry. Open the door briefly during the dry phase and the element should glow orange-red (close it fast so the cycle does not cancel).

Element symptoms at a glance#

Gallery models with MaxBoost dry#

On a Frigidaire Gallery with MaxBoost dry, the element works alongside a fan module behind the rear tub wall. If a new, working element leaves dishes hot but still wet, the fan is not moving air and needs replacement — listen for a soft hum during the final dry phase to confirm whether it runs.

When to call a professional#

Call a tech if the element tests good but the board relay is not powering it, if the tub floor is cracked around the element holes, if a ground fault comes with water damage or corrosion at the terminals, or if working underneath in a tight space with live connections is not for you.