How to Replace a Bosch Dishwasher Inlet Valve

Caring for a Bosch dishwasher means understanding its parts and how they differ from other brands. Bosch integrates this valve with its AquaStop flood-protection system, which adds a layer of complexity you will not find on other dishwashers. When the valve fails you get either no water (an E17 error) or uncontrolled flow (E15, the AquaStop tripping). This focuses on the inlet valve with attention to the AquaStop interface — both the electrical valve at the dishwasher and its relationship to the AquaStop hose solenoid at the faucet end.

Tools, Parts, and Safety First#

• Tools needed: Torx T20 driver, 10mm wrench or socket, adjustable pliers, needle-nose pliers, multimeter, bucket, towels
• Parts needed: Water inlet valve (varies by model confirm BSH part number for your model), thread seal tape (for supply connection if needed), new supply line washer
• Time required: 30-45 minutes
• Difficulty: Intermediate
• Safety warning: Disconnect power at the breaker. Close the supply valve. The supply line contains pressurized water — have bucket positioned before disconnecting. On models with 3/4" direct-connect supply (no braided hose), there is no local shutoff — you must close the main under-sink valve.

Step-by-Step Instructions#

Step 1 — Confirm valve failure before ordering#

Do not order a valve until you have confirmed the current one failed. Common misdiagnoses are a clogged inlet screen (clean it first), a closed supply valve (verify it is open), and a failed AquaStop hose solenoid (test separately — that lives at the faucet end, not the dishwasher). To confirm the valve, with the screen clear and supply flowing, meter each solenoid coil — 700-1500 ohms is normal, while an open circuit or a short to ground means a failed valve.

Step 2 — Order the correct part#

Bosch inlet valves are model-specific because of different mounting configurations and connector orientations. Find your model number on the label inside the door, left side, and search the BSH parts catalog for that model's inlet valve. A common part is BSH 00622058 (dual solenoid, fits most 300/500/800 series from 2010 on). Verify the connector type (2-pin vs 4-pin) and the mounting style (bracket vs clip) match your current valve.

Step 3 — Disconnect power and water#

Switch off the breaker, close the water supply valve under the sink (clockwise until firm), and set a bucket below the supply connection at the dishwasher. Remove the kick plate (2 Torx T20 screws at the bottom corners, then slide it forward and down).

Step 4 — Disconnect the supply line#

With a 10mm wrench, loosen the brass compression nut joining the supply line (or AquaStop hose) to the inlet valve fitting, then unscrew it by hand and pull the line free — residual water will drain into the bucket. Inspect the rubber washer inside the brass fitting, and if it is flat or cracked, replace it on reassembly to prevent drips.

Step 5 — Disconnect the electrical connectors#

The valve has 2 solenoid coils with separate 2-pin connectors (or one 4-pin connector on some models). Press the release tab on each and pull straight off. They are keyed so they can only go on one way, but photograph them anyway as insurance, and label left vs right solenoid if you want.

Step 6 — Disconnect the internal fill hose#

The valve outlet feeds a rubber hose carrying water up into the tub, secured by a spring clamp. Squeeze the clamp ears with pliers, slide it back along the hose, and pull the hose off the valve's outlet barb — water will drip, so have a towel positioned.

Step 7 — Remove the valve from its mount#

The valve attaches to the frame by a metal bracket with 1-2 Torx T15 screws (common), a plastic snap-in clip (some models), or a bayonet twist-lock (less common). Remove the screws or release the clip and the valve comes free. Note its exact orientation — the new valve must mount the same way for the hoses and wiring to reach.

Step 8 — Install the new valve#

Mount the new valve in the identical position and orientation and secure it with screws or clip. Reconnect the internal fill hose, pushing it fully onto the outlet barb until it bottoms out on the barb step, then slide the spring clamp back over the barb. Reconnect the electrical connectors (match the keying, push until they click). Reconnect the supply line — thread the brass nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with the 10mm wrench, snug plus a quarter turn, no more.

Step 9 — Check every connection for leaks#

Open the supply valve slowly, a quarter turn at a time, and watch the brass supply fitting for drips, then check the internal fill-hose connection. A drip at the supply fitting means tighten slightly or replace the washer; a drip at the fill hose means the spring clamp is on the smooth hose section instead of over the barb.

Step 10 — Test a fill cycle#

Restore power and start a Quick Wash. After the initial 30-60 second drain, you should hear the inlet valve buzz as the solenoid energizes and water flow into the tub. Open the door after 3-4 minutes to confirm water is in the tub, check the kick-plate area one more time for drips, and if it is dry, refit the kick plate.

AquaStop Hose Interaction#

Bosch AquaStop is a separate flood-prevention system built into the supply hose, with its own solenoid at the faucet end. A few notes when replacing the inlet valve:

• The AquaStop hose connects TO the inlet valve — it is not part of the valve.
• If your AquaStop hose works fine (water flows through it when the supply is open), you do NOT need to replace it with the valve.
• The AquaStop hose cannot be spliced or repaired — if it fails, replace the entire hose assembly (BSH 00667327).
• After the valve swap, verify the AquaStop hose connection is tight; a drip here runs into the base pan and triggers E15.

When Should You Call a Professional?#

EasyBear technicians serving Sacramento and the Bay Area carry Bosch-specific diagnostic tools and replacement parts on every service call. Consider professional service if the brass supply fitting on the dishwasher body is cross-threaded or corroded (a new valve will not seal to a damaged fitting), if you have a direct-wired installation (no plug) and need to verify the electrical connections, if AquaStop has tripped (E15) alongside the fill failure (there may be more damage in the base pan), or if your model has an integrated flow meter in the inlet valve assembly that needs calibration after replacement.

Need Professional Help?#

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