The short answer
On Frigeednext a cabinet that runs but will not cool is most often a stalled defrost leaving ice across the cold-air path, not a dead compressor. Ranked that way because the drain channel is moulded into the rear wall where you can reach it, which moves a normally expensive check to the front.
What you observe
- One compartment is fine and the other is not — That points at airflow between the two rather than at refrigeration itself.
- Food is spoiling faster than the cabinet feels warm — A refrigerator holds food safely at 40 degrees Fahrenheit or below, and it can sit above that while still feeling cool to a hand.
- NEAR MISS: the unit is completely silent and nothing is cold — That is a power or start-relay fault and it is a different page. If nothing runs at all, leave this one.
Causes, most likely first on Frigeednext
- Frost or ice blocking the cold-air path — First on a machine this size, where the owner is close to every part of it. Ice builds across the evaporator or across the vents between compartments, airflow stops, and the cabinet warms while the compressor keeps running. It builds quietly over weeks, so the owner notices the warmth long before the ice.
- The thermostat, sensor or control is reading the wrong temperature — Second: on a small machine this is quick to confirm and quick to rule out. The unit is doing exactly what it is told, and what it is told is wrong. A dial knocked to a warm setting, a sensor sitting in the wrong place, or a control that has lost its calibration all present identically from the front.
- The door is not sealing, or something is holding it open — Third. A shelf, a bottle or a tired gasket leaves a gap too small to see and large enough to stop the cabinet ever reaching temperature.
- The sealed system: compressor, start relay or lost refrigerant — Last, and it is the reason the order above matters. The compressor hums and cuts out, or runs with no cold anywhere at all.
Check in this order, and why
- Look for a sheet of frost in the freezer or at the vents between compartments — It separates an airflow fault from a cooling fault before any tool comes out.
- Read the setting, then measure the actual cabinet temperature with a thermometer — It separates a control fault from a refrigeration fault with one number.
- Close the door on a sheet of paper and pull it out, all the way round — Any spot where the paper slides free is a gap the cabinet is fighting.
What an owner can safely check
- Empty the cabinet and leave it switched off with the doors open until all frost has gone — Cold restored afterwards means the defrost path is the cause, not the compressor.
Tools: towels, a cooler with iceAbout 90 min
- Put an appliance thermometer in a glass of water in the middle of the cabinet overnight — A refrigerator holds food safely at 40 degrees Fahrenheit or below.
Tools: appliance thermometer, glass of waterAbout 15 min
- Test the gasket with a sheet of paper at several points on every side — Clean the gasket and the frame while you are there; sugar and grease stop it sticking.
Tools: a sheet of paper, warm soapy waterAbout 10 min
- STOP HERE if the next step needs a meter on live terminals — That is where an owner check ends and a service call begins.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, and the fan behind the rear panel will start without warning if power is restored while your hand is in there. Leave every door switch wired as it is.
When to call a technician
Call once the checks above come back clean, and call immediately if the fault is on the sealed system. Refrigerant work is licensed work. Two signs put you there straight away: a compressor that hums for a second and cuts out, and oil or an oily film anywhere around the compressor or the tubing.
Nearest pages of this class
What this page does not cover
This page covers the brand and the refrigerator class, not one family or model line. Where a family-specific or model-specific page exists for your unit, that page is the more specific answer and it takes precedence over this one. Not here: part numbers, wiring colours and component locations, which differ by family.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.