The short version
Water on the kitchen floor from a dishwasher comes from one of four places: the door, the plumbing connections, the tub itself or the foam pushed out by too much detergent. Where the water shows up decides which, and it is worth settling that before anything comes apart. On an F&P dishwasher the place to start is how the machine sits in its housing, because an integrated machine will not proceed until its own sensing says it may, so the control and sensing chain outranks the pump.
What the machine is doing
- A damp cabinet side or a swollen kickboard — A slow leak that has been running for a while.
- Water directly beneath the door, appearing mid-cycle — Points at the door gasket or at a door that no longer closes square.
- Water at the back or under the centre of the machine — The supply or drain connections, or the sump gasket, rather than the door.
- NEAR MISS: water standing inside the tub at the end — That is a drainage fault, not a leak, and it belongs on its own page.
The causes, ranked for this brand
- The machine is not level or has shifted in its opening — A machine tilted forward sends its water toward the door rather than toward the sump, and one that has been pushed in hard enough to crush its hoses leaks at the back. Ranked first on an F&P dishwasher: this platform sits behind a sensing layer that decides what the machine may do next, so what the sensors believe explains the symptom far more often than a failed part does.
- A weeping inlet hose, drain connection or filter head — The inlet side is pressurised whenever the household supply is on, so a loose compression nut or a perished washer weeps continuously rather than only during a cycle. Where it sits here: ranks above the door whenever the water is clean, continuous and appearing at the back rather than at the front.
- Too much detergent or the wrong kind entirely — Washing-up liquid in a dishwasher produces a volume of foam the machine was never designed to contain, and it pushes water straight past the door seal. Where it sits here: free to rule out, quick to confirm by the suds themselves, and genuinely common after someone has improvised.
- A failed sump gasket, heater seal or a cracked tub — The seals around the sump, the heater and the pump all perish with heat and age. Where it sits here: last on the list because it is the least common, and because confirming it means the machine comes out and goes on its back.
What to check first, and why that order
- Start at how the machine sits in its housing — It is the cause that ranks first on this kind of machine, so it is the check that ends the diagnosis most often and the one that costs least to make.
- Dry the floor completely and run a short cycle while watching — Where the first drop appears is worth more than every other clue on this page put together.
- Look for suds before looking for parts — Foam on the floor is a detergent fault and it has nothing to do with the machine.
The checks you can make yourself
- Run a rinse cycle with no detergent at all — If the leak was foam, this clears it and the floor stays dry from then on.
About 45 min
- Re-level the machine in its housing — Adjust the feet until the tub is level side to side and sits a hair back, and check the door closes with even pressure along its whole length.
Tools: adjustable spanner, levelAbout 30 min
- STOP HERE if a pressurised fitting is weeping — Shut the supply valve and leave it off.
Before you touch it
Safety
Switch the machine off at the wall or its breaker before working on it; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, and water on the floor plus a live appliance is the one combination genuinely worth respecting here. Shut the water supply off before touching any fitting, and remember mid-cycle water is hot enough to scald. Never run the machine with a known leak to see how bad it gets.
Where the owner job ends
Call when the door gasket and the connections are proven good and the machine still leaks, when you find water in the cabinet base or the floor rather than on it, or when the leak is on the pressurised supply side. A slow leak into a cabinet carcass does damage out of all proportion to the repair, and it is the version of this fault that should not wait.
Related pages in this set
What is deliberately not here
This page covers F&P dishwashers as a class, not one family or model line. Deliberately not here: gasket part numbers, hose kit references and the sump seal sets, all of which differ by family.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
