The short answer
A dryer that tumbles without heat has usually tripped a thermal device because the duct was restricted, or - on electric machines - lost one leg of its supply. On gas machines a weak igniter is the leading cause. Clear the duct first or any repair will fail again.
What the machine does
- Tumbles normally, produces no warmth — All the causes on this page look like this.
- Heated intermittently before stopping completely — A thermal device cycling, then opening.
- Electric: runs perfectly with no heat at all — A lost supply leg is very likely.
- Gas: a glow appears and no flame follows — The igniter is too weak to open the valve.
- Drying times had been stretching for weeks — The duct restriction that caused this is still there.
- Not this fault: warm air but damp clothes — That is the drying-performance page.
Ranked across machine types
- Thermal fuse or cut-out opened after overheating — First, and the duct behind it is the real fault.
- Duct blocked, crushed or too long — Second, and the cause of most of the first.
- Gas: weak igniter — First among gas-specific causes.
- Electric: element failed — Fourth, and frequently alongside an opened fuse.
- Electric: one supply leg lost at the breaker — Fifth, and it leaves the motor running happily.
- Thermostat or control not calling for heat — Last, and uncommon.
Work in this order
- Clear the duct and the filter before anything else — Every repair on this page depends on it.
- On electric, switch the breaker fully off and on and check both poles — A lost leg imitates a dead element.
- On gas, look for a glow and then a flame — Glow without flame is the verdict.
- Only then treat it as a component failure — And expect a technician to ask about the duct first.
Owner-side steps
- Clean the lint filter and the whole duct run — Both the cause and the prerequisite for a lasting repair.
Tools: duct brush, vacuumAbout 45 min
- Check the outside hood opens fully and is not blocked — A stuck flap restricts the entire run.
Tools: torchAbout 15 min
- Switch the breaker fully off and on once — On electric machines, confirm both poles.
About 10 min
- On gas, confirm other gas appliances work — It proves the supply before anything is blamed.
About 10 min
- Run a short timed cycle with the duct disconnected — It tells you whether airflow is still restricted.
About 30 min
- Stop before replacing a fuse or opening the burner compartment — A fuse fitted without clearing the cause opens again.
Heat, gas and lint
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. If you smell gas: do not switch anything on or off, leave the building, and call the gas utility or your emergency number from outside. Do not look for the leak yourself. Never bridge a thermal fuse or substitute a different part; those devices are what stop a lint-filled machine becoming a fire.
When to call
Call once the duct is clear and the machine still will not heat, because fuses, elements, igniters and thermostats are all inside the cabinet. Mention the state of the duct when you call - it decides whether the repair lasts. On a budget machine, ask for the total cost before agreeing, because two or three parts plus labour can approach the price of a replacement.
Other pages for this dryer
Scope
Generalized across dryer families and fuel types under this badge; where a family-specific or model-specific page exists it is the narrower answer. Not here: fuse ratings, element and igniter specifications, thermostat set points and duct standards.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
