The short answer
Not every model in this family ships with an ice maker, so the first question is whether yours has one and whether it is switched on — the bail arm or the on-screen setting stops production silently. After that the order is supply, then temperature, then the module itself. The WUF family as the table shows it is one model number. Work from the full number on the rating plate rather than from the family letters when you order anything.
What you actually observe
- No ice at all, compartment otherwise cold — Supply, the on/off arm or the module. The cold side is proven, so look at water first.
- Small, hollow or misshapen cubes — Restricted fill. A filter, a partly frozen fill tube or a valve that is not opening fully.
- Ice comes slowly and tastes stale — Low throughput and long dwell. Usually the same restriction, plus cubes sitting too long in the bin.
- Cubes fused into a single block — Melting and refreezing, which points at compartment temperature or a door that is not sealing.
- NEAR MISS — water pooling under the unit as well — That is a leak, and it has its own page for this family.
What no ice turns out to be
- A path that is blocked rather than a part that is broken — Ranked first on this family: a closed shut-off, a crushed line, an unseated filter or a frozen fill tube. All of them stop ice completely and none of them is a failed component.
- A compartment that never reaches harvest temperature — Second. The mould thermostat decides when to eject, so a cabinet that keeps food acceptably cold can still make no ice at all.
- A maker that has been switched off — Third by seriousness and first by ease: the bail arm knocked up, a setting changed, or an energy mode left on.
- The module, its motor or its thermostat — Last. A genuine failure mode, and the one most often replaced unnecessarily because the three above were skipped.
Check in this order, and why that order
- Check the household shut-off first — Plumbing work, a cleaner moving things, or a new appliance nearby. A closed valve is free to find and embarrassing to pay for.
- Replace or reseat the filter — An unseated cartridge after a change is one of the most frequent causes of production stopping overnight.
- Watch one complete cycle — Fill, freeze, harvest. Knowing which of the three fails is the single most useful thing you can tell a technician.
- Leave the module alone until the rest is clear — It is the expensive assumption, and it is wrong more often than it is right on a cabinet that recently worked.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Do not thaw a frozen fill tube with a heat gun, a hair dryer on full or boiling water poured into the compartment: the plastic distorts, and a distorted tube leaks into the cabinet afterwards. If you close a household shut-off valve to work on the supply, open it again slowly and check the joint for weeping before pushing the cabinet back.
Models this page covers
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| WUF13* | commercial-cool:refrigerator:wuf |
Where the owner line is on these models
Stop and call when the diagnosis needs a meter rather than a torch. Anything on the water path in front of the cabinet, anything on the settings, and anything involving the compartment being too warm is owner territory. The inlet valve, the module, the mould heater and the thermostat are not: they are behind panels on a live appliance, and on small cabinets the parts are often worth more than the ice is. Because the WUF line is a single model number, a technician can look the parts up before arriving, which is worth mentioning when you call.
Other WUF problems we cover
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
